Anchor cleaning

I am a new lead climber and I have noticed some sport route anchors do not have chains or rings. I have been told that when cleaning the route you can thread your rope straight through the bolt holes and then repel down. Is this true and if not what is the best way to clean when there is no chains or rings?

Jon Powell wrote:Is this true and if not what is the best way to clean when there is no chains or rings?

Yes metolious and a few other companies make hangers that do not require rings or quick link and you can "repel" directly off them. They are thicker than an average hanger so it doesnt damage your rope.

As far as the best way to clean when there are no chains and rings... See your previous sentence:

Jon Powell wrote:II have been told that when cleaning the route you can thread your rope straight through the bolt holes and then repel down.

Just make sure to repel and not rappel.

NO! That is not true. If there are no rings then you should leave a locking biner (or quick link) or two and rappel from those. I believe your rope would get stuck in the hanger holes... and create horrible sheath damage when pulling it.

There are, however, many different styles of hangers... some are made to be rappelled off of. These are usually much beefier and look very different than the bolts you had been clipping as you climbed the route. If the anchor bolts look the same as the ones on the whole route do not put your rope through them.

I hope this helps!

Safe and happy climbing!

PS the bolt is just what it sounds like... a bolt. Usually has a nut on the end and most of it is in the rock. The "Bolt Holes" you mentioned are called hangers. Hangers are the plate with a hole in it that you clip quick draws to.

There are hangers made for rapping without the rings or chains. If that's what is available, I wouldn't have a problem with rapping off them.

Granted, you should know what they look like, most hangers aren't designed like that, which in that situation, I'd probably use a leaver biner.

Yea I get it rappel. Auto spell check sometimes gets it wrong. So it sounds like if I am unsure if they are the beefy hangers you mentioned then I should just plan on a leaving a locking biner??

Neil R wrote:NO! That is not true. If there are no rings then you should leave a locking biner (or quick link) or two and rappel from those. There are, however, many different styles of hangers... some are made to be rappelled off of.

Haha wtf Neil!?? That is the dumbest and most contradictory post ever.... "NO YOU CAN NOT DO THAT, but sometimes you can do it."

As everyone said(and I posted originally) some hangers are made to be rappelled from. Figure out what kind they are or leave a biner on each hanger if you are really unsure.

Previous post is correct. I would venture to say that if they are top anchors and there are two of them, then they are rappel hangers. Other wise they would probably have rings or quicklinks, which is a cheaper option. Locking biners will not last long as they are somewhat expensive and are taken as booty. Regular biners are just fine.

Thanks guys for all the advice. By the way if any of you ever want a rookie tagging along let me know. I lead 5.8 clean and follow 5.9 -5.10 so keep that in mind. Thanks again.

Go get yourself a book or two to help sort out these basic questions. Craig Luebben has written several that are great. Try your library if money's tight or Amazon has them all.
amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Ma…