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Mallorca beta

Original Post
Omar Little · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 15

Hey All,

So I was recently accepted into a program for teaching English in Mallorca. Assuming I can get my visa taken care of I will be teaching and living in Palma from October-May. I will only be working about 12 hours a week so will have lots of time to do what I love most, climb.

Anyways, after doing some google searches without much result I figured I would post up on MP to see if people could help me out.

-Is there a mountainproject-esque website for Spain? I was hoping to find somewhere to post looking for long term partners.

-Are there gyms in Palma? I could not find any using google, but I would hope there is at least one gym to climb/meet people?

-Does anyone have any experience with the local climbing community there? Are there a lot of local climbers?

If anyone has any other general info/tips for me that would be great.

Thanks!

scott rourke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 15

There is a rock-fax guide to Mallorca that you should get, if you havn't already...
I've only heard great things about the climbing there.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746
Nathaniel Gustafson wrote:-Does anyone have any experience with the local climbing community there? Are there a lot of local climbers?
Ran into local climbers last fall at Sa Gubia, just north of Palma. Super friendly. Went out of their way to give us a ride back to our car. They were from Palma.

There's a local gear store in Palma, for sure.

You'll have a blast.
Omar Little · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 15

I have the guidebook on order.

Awesome, thanks guys. Brian, do you have any idea if there is a gym in Palma? Again, I have not been able to find anything on google.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746
Nathaniel Gustafson wrote:Brian, do you have any idea if there is a gym in Palma?
I don't.

There's a number of guide services listed on the 'net, though, and contact through one of them may be productive. Try canyoning guides, too.

Some of the popular sport climbing crags will have folks to bump into, no doubt.

You might toss a shout out on UK climbers website too.
Omar Little · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 15

Cool, I think I will post something up on UK Climbers.

D. Durrant · · Utah, USA · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,350

The rockfax guide works but I would prefer to buy the guide written by Miguel Riera, a local climber. You could find this in any climbing shop on the island. He also wrote a guide for the DWS.

Gotta spend time climbing at Sa Gubia, it's just an awesome place and not far from Palma.

How did you get this teaching job? I would love in on this. Hablo un poco de Español, et un peu français.

Enjoy!

Jeff Fiedler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 0

Think about taking a side trip at some point during your stay to Menorca.

Very different vibe than Mallorca, much quieter.

Not as much climbing, but there are some fun spots that you can guarantee will not be crowded.

Parc Natural de S’Albufera des Grau has a sea cliff where the access is by rapping down 2 or more pitches and climbing back up. One of cooler areas I've ever climbed.

Jeff Fiedler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 0

Just to elaborate, when I said cool -- not like yosemite cool.

But where do you get to have a multipitch sea cliff to yourself in a UNESCO heritage site.

And know that your bail option involves a mile swim.

Omar Little · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 15

D. Durrant: Cool, I've heard good things about Miquel 's guide. I will pick one up when I get there.

As for landing the job... it is a stipend through the Spanish Education Dept. Here is a link for it:

educacion.gob.es/dms-static…

The program does not pay much, and it seems rather disorganized... but hey a chance to stay in Spain and get paid enough to live on seems pretty good. My Spanish is not that good these days, but I am working hard to get it up to a mediocre level of fluency.

Jeff: Thanks for the Menorca advice. Parc Natural de S’Albufera des Grau looks amazing... I will definitely check it out during my time there.

Celena Morgan · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 70

I am going to be in Mallorca in the first week of July. I need help in finding a gear rental place for both sport and deep water solo climbing (a camera rental for this would be kind of nice, or at least someone to photograph me so I can show my family what I'm up to... or um, falling off of).

I would also need a guide as I travel solo and obviously can't climb the sport alone and it would be nice to have someone out there with me for my first time ever deep water solo.

PLEASE help me as soon as possible as I'm trying to plan and need to know if 1. I'll be able to do this as a solo traveler (rental / guide / etc) and 2. if it's going to even be affordable to do.

THANK YOU SO MUCH for your time and help!!!
Celena Morgan
bso118@gmail.com (can also use the same email address in the search box on facebook to find me)

Pete Cutler · · Des Moines, IA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 5

Resurrecting this to see if anybody is willing to share any beta for a trip to Mallorca.  I'll have 1 (maybe 2) days to climb as part of a trip with my wife and kids.  Looking for recommendations, partners, guide service recommendations for deep-water soloing.  Any information would be greatly appreciated. 

Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,699

Your best bet with a family is probably Cala Barques.  It has some really fun DWS and a great beach.  I spent a couple of weeks there with my wife and young kids 7-8 years ago.   I also climbed in the Cova del Diablo which is not at all family friendly.   It was pretty easy to hook up with other climbers at Cala Barques and the routes are not overly scary, although you are free soloing.  The approach is kinda weird and I don't know if the access has changed.  We had to park along a country road and walk about a half kilometer to get to the beach.  I had never deep water soloed prior to my trip there and don't know about any guide services for psicobloc specifically.   Being comfortable on 5.12 or harder is probably a prerequisite to having a good experience, as the best routes are quite overhanging.  

joed · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 130

my wife and I are heading to Mallorca in October for 8 nights, we booked 3 on the southeast coast to check out the DWS and 5 nights in Sóller...However, just today the airbnb in Sóller canceled our reservation (that we made in February)...so now it's back to the drawing board and I'm wondering/asking those in the know, is that the best area to book our last 5 nights in Mallorca?  we do want to check out Sa Gubia and we will have a car....open to suggestions as we look for new accommodations...

Tanner James · · Sierras · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 640

We stayed in Cala D’Or for a week last month and enjoyed that. Cheap housing and 20 minutes from everything. We were climbing. Highly recommend the crag Cala Bota it was probably my favorite place it’s sport climbing on a cliff over the ocean absolutely beautiful. Also Tijuana wall and Cala Magranar. Cala D’Or is also very close to all the DWS spots that are most popular 

joed · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 130

thank you Tanner.  Very helpful.

Levan Birkadze · · Tbilisi, GA · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

Hey, anybody wanna join me climbing in Mallorca? I climb 7a(+) and have 10 draws. Also looking forward to DWS. I would appreciate if I could join you!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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