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First max recruitment phase details?

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

For anyone following along or who is curious:
Wrapped up HYP at 4am this morning and I'll start MaxR on Friday night or Saturday morning. Short results from memory (I haven't analyzed the spreadsheet yet) were 20-30% increase in weight used per grip. 8 total sessions with the first 2 sort of feeling out the correct levels. 60 to 96 hours rest between sessions although I usually did 72 hours.

I increased 5lbs for most workouts and experimented with a 10 pound increase on many grips after workout 5 with positive results. This last workout was starting to feel a bit flat compared to 5, 6 and 7 through I still hit personal bests in weight used. No finger pain, soreness or swelling. Skin took a bit of a beating the last 2 sessions as temps were warmer than I would have liked even at 4 am with the fan's going. The index/middle pocket always felt tweaky but I was careful to set it up right and load it slowly and I continually got stronger with it. More analysis to come later with respect to protocol and grips used if I repeat periodization in the future.

Anecdotally I feel stronger than ever open handed which is cool.

We'll see what MaxR brings!

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

Well MaxR is just about wrapped up. I'm going to rest a couple days and do one more campus/bouldering workout on Wednesday night before a couple weeks of PE. By then school will be over (this Friday!) and I'll have had some time to rest and recover a bit before starting my peak phase projects. Maybe we'll get some help with a cool spell, otherwise I'll move up in elevation.

I will have done 5 short campus sessions after warmups but before bouldering. I threw in another afternoon of sport climbing and a couple garage bouldering sessions too. I ran when I could but life has been busy and I'm a couple pounds heavier than I'd like. As I started the phase I was pretty nervous about how weak I felt but after a couple sessions I was feeling really strong on some homewall routes which improved my confidence. My campusing probably sucks compared to most but I went from never campusing before to improving every session on medium and large rungs. I focused on basic laddering and long moves. I enjoyed using the basic BRC setup to campus on more than RJN. Bouldering after each session was fun, no issues there. I enjoyed working on hard moves and learning new movements.

My fingers feel good, no issues there. Skin did better than during the Hyp phase. My left elbow has some minor soreness after a session but it's not really bothering me. I continued to do a short core/antagonist workout after each climbing day, similar to my Hyp phase. I'm sure it could be improved in the future, maybe next round.

Looking forward to sharpening up during the PE phase and then climbing outside lots more in July!!!

SteveZ · · Excelsior, MN · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 431

Hey Chris, did you get out to snake watching this summer and put all that training to the test?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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