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Last trip from the Front Range

Original Post
Dylan Hettinger · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 5

If you were a mediocre climber who liked crimpy routes, where would you go for a last weekend trip before moving on from Colorado?

Sport or trad, single or multipitch, even bouldering heaven forbid. I've been to most of the major areas, but tend to prefer the little gems that get overlooked.

Suggested areas?

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Eldo or some of the more vertical Splatte stuff.
If Evans is still Hospitable, go climb Cary Granite. The crux traverse is crimpy...

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

The Monastery

Tommy Ormond · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 265

crimpy is shelf rd. stay in the shade.

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

Make it easy on yourself, just go to South St. Vrain Canyon up from Lyons. Tons, and I mean tons of climbing, lots of it crimpy slabs, and about 1/10 of the people you'll find in Boulder Canyon, 20 min south.

Or Unaweep if you feel the need to drive across the state for some reason.

Dankasaurus · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 85

Gnar approaches, rattlers, lions, poison ivy, and friable rock lacking chalked holds make the Vrain less desirable. No camping either. Sorry.

BarcaRules/Juice Crew · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 0

If it's just a day trip, The Palace outside of Fort Collins is nice single pitch sport, and right now the river is low.

AndyMac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 1,123

Penitente? I think crimpy and little are the exact description of the routes. Great setting and some great routes.

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510
AndyMac wrote:Penitente? I think crimpy and little are the exact description of the routes. Great setting and some great routes.
Do you really live in Center?
Dan 60D5H411 · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,239

For moderate, crimpy, sport routes Shelf Road and Devils Head are great options. Shelf is starting to come into season (although you might want to chase the shade) while Devils Head is starting to show the Autumn Aspen colors. This wall may be beyond your definition of "moderate" but it lives up to it's name: mountainproject.com/v/the-c…

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Looking at your profile give this a shot if you can before you move:
The UAC
Still obscure for now, the routes are mostly crimpy too.

But as for the weekend getaway, get up to Devils Head THIS WEEKEND (party) if you can.

Dylan Hettinger · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 5

Awesome, thanks all. That gives me a lot to look at.

AndyMac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 1,123
Evan S wrote: Do you really live in Center?
Yep, the center of the universe I believe. I'm surprised it remains undiscovered!
There's been a decent bit of development in the last few years here. About 20-30 new bolted routes just this year and tons of new boulders (that Bob Murray and Phillip Benningfield have surely climbed already).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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