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Werewolves in London
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 221
votes
Routes in Sector Shinto
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100,000 Miles (Burning that gasoline) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bovine Blitz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Center El Shinto S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dope Shinto S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Euro Trash S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Get Me A Bucket S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Green Gobs of Greasy Grimey Greenie Guts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Greenie Cards Not Accepted S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Lancet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Left El Shinto S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Macaroni S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right El Shinto S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Thunderbolt Three Slapper, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wafer thin Mint S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Werewolves in London S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wu-Tang's Wild Shinto Ride S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wutang's Secret Shinto Ride S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wyoming Flower Child S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Charlie Kardaleff |
| Page Views: | 2,941 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Richardson on Jul 9, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
A nice line that runs just to the right of Euro Trash. Follow the first couple of moves of Euro Trash and then break right onto the pocketed face above. Follow the bolt line through a series of sharp, slightly bulge-y pockets for about 90'. The crux comes toward the middle, where good pockets become difficult to identify and the pump begins to set in. After this, it's smooth sailing through big jugs.
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