Belaying from the top using an ATC guide.

All Locations > Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Superstition Mo… > Northwest Pinna… > Tower > Standard Route (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R)

Belaying from the top using an ATC guide.

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Jeff leading the second pitch. At this point, you either move right into the rotten gully, or out left onto the headwall.

J DOG Chillaxin at the top of the 1st Pitch of the Phallus AKA The Tower.

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Nate Young

Sep 10, 2012

“Belaying from the top using an ATC guide. ”

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The unprotected, technical crux of the first pitch. The bottoms of my feet are aproximately 20 feet off the ground!

scott starting the Tower

Checking out the Valley View at the true Summit of the Phallus aka The Tower

Jared doin a little shout out to his SLC Crew! YO! West Side! Check it! YEH!

Previously uploaded image with the beta crap all over it.

View of "The Hand" from the 2nd pitch belay ledge on "The Tower - Standard Route".

2nd Pitch Belay Stance....<br>
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Gets a bit crowded with three people up there.<br>
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The bolts are new but the chains are pretty rusty. They are just fine though.

Moving over to the 1st stance.

Photo Taken from the belay stance at the start of the 2nd pitch. <br>
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This pitch is interesting because it pretty runout in sections, with 10-20 feet between bolts in some places. Most of the bolts are shiny and new, so you should be able to feel confident on the run outs. The first bolt was left original in all of its rusty glory to keep the ascetic of the 1970′s era route. When you get past the 5th bolt, you can choose:<br>
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The popular way and head right into the gully. There is a crux move from the 5th bolt into the gully, with a garbage piton at the base of the gully that is there to make you feel good, Id avoid falling on it at all costs.<br>
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The less popular and more dangerous left handed face. This face is protected with one piton at the base of the saddle, yet again another relic of the 1970′s era route. There are two pretty cruxy sections on this face, one right above the piton and another about 10-15 feet higher then the piton. There isnt much in the way of protecting this face except for a couple places for micro-stoppers on the far left hand side of the arrete. If youre not a fan of highballing. go through the gully.<br>
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The top of the spire has two great belay / rap bolts with a few lengths of chain. You want to double line rappel this back to the middle belay ledge to be safe. It is possible to rap off the left hand side of the spire and hit the ground using two 70m ropes, but make sure you put some knotts in the ends of the ropes to be safe. (Pulling the rope from these chains is TOUGH a lot of the time it feels like your just pulling on the dynamic reaction of the rope. Just keep yanking and it will fall.)

Half way up the summit pitch

Nearing the summit chains on the left block

Panorama of the view from the 2nd belay stance. The Hand Spire is visible in the middle.

Just off the ground, and passing the only piece I could get in for the first 25 feet!

Headed to the gully with not much in way of protection

The 2nd pitch belay ledge, with only the last 10 feet of class 4 scrambling visible. Right below this is a gully and the last piece of pro is about 15' down in a smaller pocket (I was able to get a .5 BD C4 in there).

nearing the anchors

A slung horn Scott's first peace of pro

You never know what you might find...a Bandito bolt hanger on the summit anchor of the Tower!

Jeff leads up the final headwall!

Jeff leading the second pitch. At this point, you either move right into the rotten gully, or out left onto the headwall.

Belaying from the top using an ATC guide.

J DOG Chillaxin at the top of the 1st Pitch of the Phallus AKA The Tower.

Nate and Baur nearing the summit.

Stu Ritchie glad to be at the belay of pitch 1!

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Aaron Collins

Mesa, Az

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