Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Jim Brink, Sept. 3, 2012
Page Views: 2,849 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jim Brink on Sep 3, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

This is a classic Vedauwoo OW. The crux is in the first 20 feet where the crack does a dogleg to the left and overhangs a bit.

Location Suggest change

This is on the east side of Limbo Rock aka Upper Devil's Playground above a new 4 bolt sport route "Formicae." From the top of that route, go up and left into a hidden alcove with two OW cracks. The right one is Crack to Nowhere. Walk off to the north or find the rap station for "Sara Palin's Drill" a few feet to the SW.

Protection Suggest change

#6 Camalot, Big Bros to 10 inches, a 14 inch Valley Giant or Big Bro for the top. It has natural anchors.

Photos

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