Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
FA: | Peter Croff & Bob Stauch, '60s. FFA of P1 Steve Cheyney, '60s. FFA of P2 Bill Mummery & Mike Grey, '68. FFA of continuous climb Kurt Rasmussen, '73. |
Page Views: | 2,852 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Nov 5, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal nesting closures
Details
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This is a classic old Garden route. Most people just climb the first pitch. Some loose rock will be encountered, but the moves and position are worthy. (Beware that the bottom right half of the pillar fell off many years ago after a large, 2-day rain storm. A similar event such as this could cause the collapse of the rest of the pillar.)
P1. Traverse left into the crack that forms the left side of the large pillar. Climb straight up past pitons and a couple steep moves to a nice traverse move right to the anchor atop the pillar. (5.9, 85 feet)
P2. Traverse right, then up for a few moves, then right again past many pins to a ledge with a tree. (5.11, 100 feet) -- A low variation to this traverse exists as well. FA by Peter Gallagher & Mack Johnson, '79. (5.10)
P3. Climb up through a bulge above the tree, passing a few pins, to gain the upper slab of North Gateway Rock. Continue to a belay near the top of a pillar-type feature. (5.9, 100 feet)
P4. Climb the slab above past a few pins to the top of the formation. This is the last pitch of Indecent Exposure. (5.6 R/X, 130 feet)
Descend from the summit by walking north along a huge ledge, then going east through a notch and down-climbing 10 feet on chopped steps, in order to access a big ledge on the east side of the formation. From there, walk south to access the Tourist Gully for the quickest and safest descent. Information taken from Mark Rolofson's Soft Touch 3 guide.
P1. Traverse left into the crack that forms the left side of the large pillar. Climb straight up past pitons and a couple steep moves to a nice traverse move right to the anchor atop the pillar. (5.9, 85 feet)
P2. Traverse right, then up for a few moves, then right again past many pins to a ledge with a tree. (5.11, 100 feet) -- A low variation to this traverse exists as well. FA by Peter Gallagher & Mack Johnson, '79. (5.10)
P3. Climb up through a bulge above the tree, passing a few pins, to gain the upper slab of North Gateway Rock. Continue to a belay near the top of a pillar-type feature. (5.9, 100 feet)
P4. Climb the slab above past a few pins to the top of the formation. This is the last pitch of Indecent Exposure. (5.6 R/X, 130 feet)
Descend from the summit by walking north along a huge ledge, then going east through a notch and down-climbing 10 feet on chopped steps, in order to access a big ledge on the east side of the formation. From there, walk south to access the Tourist Gully for the quickest and safest descent. Information taken from Mark Rolofson's Soft Touch 3 guide.
Location
The route is located on the West face of North Gateway Rock, at the height of the path along the base of the cliff, and below a roof and right facing corner that were formed by the large rockfall that I mentioned in the description. This is right of Men at Work, and left of Horribly Heinous.
Protection
Quickdraws and a few cams from 1" to 5" will still leave you with some runouts on the first pitch but on easier climbing. The second pitch requires 11 or 12 quickdraws.
I added new webbing to the first pitch anchor yesterday, equalizing 2 pitons and one newer eyebolt, and thus eliminating the old steel cable American triangle. (The 2 eyebolts are not great, and the one that I did not include in the new webbing anchor is loose.)
I added new webbing to the first pitch anchor yesterday, equalizing 2 pitons and one newer eyebolt, and thus eliminating the old steel cable American triangle. (The 2 eyebolts are not great, and the one that I did not include in the new webbing anchor is loose.)
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