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Routes in 7. The Slabs
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Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crazy Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Creepy Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Flake, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13 |
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Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Kettle Call T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Stadtmüller-Griffin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Upper Right Ramp T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | A and J Comeau |
| Page Views: | 8,972 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jun 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Taking Standard Route's direct route (Quarts Pocket), to Wave Length and on to Sliding Board is a great link up and a great way to avoid crowds if you time it right....
Wave Length has some pure friction and some face climbing on it, but even the face climbing feels slippery and a little insecure, so you will thank your sticky rubber.... It is really fun and a must do for fans of the slabs....
Pitch 1: (5.8) From the thread anchor on standard, make one or two moves to clip the first bolt and pull over the bulge.... Head straight up to the next bulge and conveniently the next bolt.... Clip a long draw on the bolt, because you need to head left and get in to the sustained steep stuff and you wont want the rope drag...place a piece or two and make a reachy move to a good pocket and scamper up to the slippery dike...where you will get the pleasure of fine climbing and 3 well placed bolts.... Follow the dike to a 2 bolt anchor....
Pitch 2: (5.6) Head straight up the slab to and overlap, protect, and run it out up another slippery dike to another 2 bolt anchor (the one below the steep dike pitch on Sliding Board....
Pitch 3: (5.7) This pitch is not always done as the steep dike is really fun; however, the true route heads out right on a slab then back left on another slab until you can use a flake to get over the overlap.... Head up and meet up with sliding board at the comfortable belay ledge....
Wave Length has some pure friction and some face climbing on it, but even the face climbing feels slippery and a little insecure, so you will thank your sticky rubber.... It is really fun and a must do for fans of the slabs....
Pitch 1: (5.8) From the thread anchor on standard, make one or two moves to clip the first bolt and pull over the bulge.... Head straight up to the next bulge and conveniently the next bolt.... Clip a long draw on the bolt, because you need to head left and get in to the sustained steep stuff and you wont want the rope drag...place a piece or two and make a reachy move to a good pocket and scamper up to the slippery dike...where you will get the pleasure of fine climbing and 3 well placed bolts.... Follow the dike to a 2 bolt anchor....
Pitch 2: (5.6) Head straight up the slab to and overlap, protect, and run it out up another slippery dike to another 2 bolt anchor (the one below the steep dike pitch on Sliding Board....
Pitch 3: (5.7) This pitch is not always done as the steep dike is really fun; however, the true route heads out right on a slab then back left on another slab until you can use a flake to get over the overlap.... Head up and meet up with sliding board at the comfortable belay ledge....
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