Gunks Guide Book

This has probably been asked 100 times, but here I go... lol... whats the best up to date guide book for the Gunks and where is the best place to get it (online or local)
Cheers!

Purchase the gray covered guide by Dick Williams at Rock & Snow climbing store located in New Paltz, New York. You might find one on Amazon or E-Bay for less money but this is the most detailed up to date book that I know for the Gunks covering the most climbed section of the cliff. There is another one that covers The Near Trapps.

I second DavidLG's recommendations. Don't waste your money on other Gunks guidebooks.

Agreed, it is the most complete and the topos are great

So is the gray one for "The Trapps" and the other one for "The Near Trapps" would it ib worth visiting both on a one week trip over there?

Theriault wrote:So is the gray one for "The Trapps" and the other one for "The Near Trapps" would it ib worth visiting both on a one week trip over there?

The Trapps is a more extensive area than the Near Trapps. You can easily spend a week exploring climbs in the Trapps. If you want to do a few classics in the "Nears" and don't want to spring $35 for another guidebook you can get by with using route print-outs from MP.

I'd say over the course of a week you'd definitely at least want to check out the Nears for a day. There's some fantastic climbing over there.

Start with the Trapps guide and make a run into new paltz mid week if you decide to check out the nears. The dick williams guides are the ones to get, to echo what has already been said.

Thanks for the info guy's! can't wait to get there!!

While im on the subject, any good camping spots close by?

The multiple use area is on your left as you head towards the cliffs from new paltz. It's not great, but it's convenient.

Drake Pregnall wrote:The multiple use area is on your left as you head towards the cliffs from new paltz. It's not great, but it's convenient.

and free. Of the two commonly used campgrounds (the MUA and Camp Slime right at the beginning of the Nears) the MUA is by far the better one. Stay there.

I don't mind Camp Slime at all. No amenities (e.g. showers) but if you get a site in the back it tends to be quite quiet, is right near the cliffs, and like the MUA is free. It's near the road but there are enough trees that it feels secluded enough. I usually am able to find a free site on Saturday mornings. MUA would be better if you plan to hang out at night by the site having beers etc.

Don't spend the $35 on the Nears book even if you check it out once. MP printouts and asking fellow climbers in the Nears for directions should suffice.

Logan Schiff wrote:I don't mind Camp Slime at all. No amenities (e.g. showers) but if you get a site in the back it tends to be quite quiet, is right near the cliffs, and like the MUA is free. It's near the road but there are enough trees that it feels secluded enough. I usually am able to find a free site on Saturday mornings. MUA would be better if you plan to hang out at night by the site having beers etc. Don't spend the $35 on the Nears book even if you check it out once. MP printouts and asking fellow climbers in the Nears for directions should suffice.

While everything you say is 100% true, the real bummer about Slime is the "No Fires" rule.

Seth Derr wrote: While everything you say is 100% true, the real bummer about Slime is the "No Fires" rule.

Good point. I realize now that OP indicated he may be in town for a week. I don't think I'd spend more than a couple days at Slime.

Theriault,

What number grades are you looking to climb?

Gunks wrote:I second DavidLG's recommendations. Don't waste your money on other Gunks guidebooks.

I was gonna roll in here and troll, but it looks like that horrid Extreme Angles guidebook is gone.

Too bad, I liked climbing Ken's Crack at 5.10b or whatever.

Jim Sweeney wrote: Theriault, What number grades are you looking to climb?

any classic from the 5.6 to 5.12+ range

Theriault,

Check your PM's

I didn't get it, I send you a PM with my Email

Well, the Gray book is the best guidebook for sure, but for a first visit, he'll spend a quarter of the time looking for the routes he wants to do, a quarter of the time off route and the rest with a smile on his face.

While extreme angle book is not as good, at least it has pictures and good topos.