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Routes in The Dungeon
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Ball and Chain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fugitive, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Heretic, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Last Request S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Life Sentence S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Strappado, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro. 1988 |
| Page Views: | 4,779 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Anderson on Jun 21, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Access Issue: This area is on private property and is subjected to access issues. Please be cognizant of any sign that preclude its use!
Details
Description
This is a fantastic sport climb that was WAY ahead of its time. The rock is perfect, and the moves are elaborate, unusual, and hard. I didn't detect any chipping or other "funny business" on this route, which means it's probably the hardest "natural" route at the City/Castles.
Start about 10 feet left of the dihedral under a small roof that guards a blunt prow. This contrived, but fun start includes an inconsequential crux gaining the face above the roof--think "outside the box". After getting past the initial face, get a no-hands rest in the corner before the crux.
The crux climbs the very steep (45 deg) scooped-out hueco features. I used some very elaborate and odd (even by modern standards) moves to overcome this crux, and I couldn't help but think that when this route was first climbed, these moves would have seemed very unconventional...just more proof of Yaniro's amazing vision and talent for climbing.
This is a fantastic route, and this little crag is a great place to hang out on a hot day...it stays shady well into late afternoon due to its steep nature.
Start about 10 feet left of the dihedral under a small roof that guards a blunt prow. This contrived, but fun start includes an inconsequential crux gaining the face above the roof--think "outside the box". After getting past the initial face, get a no-hands rest in the corner before the crux.
The crux climbs the very steep (45 deg) scooped-out hueco features. I used some very elaborate and odd (even by modern standards) moves to overcome this crux, and I couldn't help but think that when this route was first climbed, these moves would have seemed very unconventional...just more proof of Yaniro's amazing vision and talent for climbing.
This is a fantastic route, and this little crag is a great place to hang out on a hot day...it stays shady well into late afternoon due to its steep nature.
Location
At the Dungeon, there are three routes all squeezed together that kind of confuse things. The Heretic is the left-most route. It starts under a small roof and climbs up a blunt prow for the first couple bolts (not in the corner where Ball and Chain starts). After the initial crux, it climbs over to the corner to B & C then heads straight up the overhanging hueco feature where B & C moves right around the blunt prow on jugs.
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