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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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[Redacted] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cold Turkeys T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Crack'n Up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Deacon Blues T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Diana T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ken's Blind Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Steep Hikin' T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1 |
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Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ants Leemets and Elmer Skahan, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 11,222 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Welch on Apr 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
A highly under-rated route, The Last Will Be First is one of my favorite 5.6's in the Gunks, and an excellent test-piece for the 5.6 leader. Pitch 1 features great, sustained, thoughtful face climbing above gear on clean rock, and pitch 2 has a fun overhang.
The route is a short ways left of High Exposure. The start is on an easy, low-angle face with some grassy ledges about 10-15 feet up - look for a vertical crack about 30-40 feet above.
P1: Climb up the easy lower rock to a crack. Follow the steepening crack to its top, then continue up and right across the clean face to an overhang below a left-facing corner. Pull the overhang and climb the corner to its top, where it is capped by another overhang. Escape right and continue up to a small ledge with the stump of a dead tree. Step right and climb easier rock to the GT ledge. 5.6 PG, 160 feet.
P2: Walk left about 20 feet to the first small left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a horizontal, then diagonal up and left to the notch in the overhang. Make some fun moves to pull to overhang, then continue up the slightly dirty corner about 10 feet before diagonaling up and right on easy, broken rock to the top. A worthwhile pitch. 5.6 PG, 70 feet.
Descent: Rappel from the bolt anchor back to the GT ledge (your ropes land directly at the start of P2, so be sure to call before you throw them). On the GT ledge, another bolt anchor appears to climber's left, from which two 60m ropes will get you to the ground, or a single rope will get you to a third bolted rap station. This a popular area of the cliff, so watch where you throw your ropes.
From the clifftop (and other routes), you'll need to scramble down a bit to reach the bolts. Look for the notch where the climb finishes.
The route is a short ways left of High Exposure. The start is on an easy, low-angle face with some grassy ledges about 10-15 feet up - look for a vertical crack about 30-40 feet above.
P1: Climb up the easy lower rock to a crack. Follow the steepening crack to its top, then continue up and right across the clean face to an overhang below a left-facing corner. Pull the overhang and climb the corner to its top, where it is capped by another overhang. Escape right and continue up to a small ledge with the stump of a dead tree. Step right and climb easier rock to the GT ledge. 5.6 PG, 160 feet.
P2: Walk left about 20 feet to the first small left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a horizontal, then diagonal up and left to the notch in the overhang. Make some fun moves to pull to overhang, then continue up the slightly dirty corner about 10 feet before diagonaling up and right on easy, broken rock to the top. A worthwhile pitch. 5.6 PG, 70 feet.
Descent: Rappel from the bolt anchor back to the GT ledge (your ropes land directly at the start of P2, so be sure to call before you throw them). On the GT ledge, another bolt anchor appears to climber's left, from which two 60m ropes will get you to the ground, or a single rope will get you to a third bolted rap station. This a popular area of the cliff, so watch where you throw your ropes.
From the clifftop (and other routes), you'll need to scramble down a bit to reach the bolts. Look for the notch where the climb finishes.
![At Last! I'm putting this up mainly because on at least two different occasions after reading the route description in the grey Williams Guide I've ended up at the base of [[Lost and Found]]106555418 thinking that it was the start of Last Will be First.](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/106555417_smallMed_1494120003.jpg?cache=1701315972)
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