Best 5.5.6.7.8 in the Dacks?
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Will Roth wrote:I would have to say that Drake pretty much nailed it with: 5.5 Regular Route, Chapel Pond Slab 5.6 North Country Club Crack, Jewels and Jems 5.7 Pete's Farewell, Pitchoff 5.8 Rockaholic, Beer Walls Also in the 5.7 range and just as classic as Pete's: 5.7 Quadrophenia, Hurricane Getting into 5.8 starts to open it up a little bit: 5.8 The El, Pitchoff 5.8 Arachnid Traction, Creature Wall 5.8 Prelude into Overture, Washbowl 5.8 Hesitation, Washbowl Those are just the ones off the top of my head. There are many others that I think are the "best"! Just don't have time to try and remember them all!Nailed it! Great list. Quadrophenia is my favorite 5.7 in the Dacks, possibly ever. All of those routes are must-do. I'll also suggest visiting Barkeaters for an amazing selection of 5.8s. Eat Yourself a Pie (admittedly a sandbag at 5.8++) is great. Mr Clean (5.8) nearby is a short but excellent splitter/corner; good entry-level 5.8. Fun City (5.7) is great too. Various other good routes of the grade also found at said cliff, most/all with bolt lower-offs. mountainproject.com/v/fun-c… |
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The sword, 5.6. Short but cool feature. Beer Walls |
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I gotta give some love to Great Chimney (5.6) at Pitchoff (it has the same start as Pete's Farewell). The chimney pitches are super fun, and that walk across the fin on the last pitch makes for an awesome position. Gear is pretty good, but there are some crumbly spots on P2. |
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I can comfortably say The Sting is probably my favorite 5.8 in the ADKs. Pete's Farewell is a great 5.7, especially the last pitch, which might be the best pitch of 5.7 in the ADK's. Eat Yourself a Pie would solidly take the 5.8++++ category. |
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mmainer wrote: If we wanted to change the topic a bit, I would put Barkeater as the best crag for climbers in the 5.6-5.10 range.Agreed (at least for single pitch). Another great route in the 5.8 range is The Disputed at Pitchoff. |
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Gamesmanship- 5.8(+) |
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best climb 5.8 or under???? Empress all the way. |
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John Husky wrote:The sword, 5.6. Short but cool feature. Beer Walls Labatt-ami 5.7Gotta disagree. Those are decent, but people are naming plenty of climbs at those grades that are a LOT better. |
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Tilmans Arete is a great two pitch 5.7 that nobodies mentioned. Lots of variations on the first pitch, all of them fun. |