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Jared928
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Aug 19, 2012
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 0
Can anyone recommend some several pitch full sport routes with a max of 5.8-5.9ish around the Wasatch? I understand that most multi-pitch involves trad to some extent and thus I haven't really been able to find any full sport multi's around. Please suggest any if you know of them. Thanks!
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Tanner Bishoff
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Aug 19, 2012
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provo,ut
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 0
Rock canyon has several good multi-pitch sport the one that comes to mind first is Cosmic Space Dust Lazers, and Lord of the Slings.
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Nate_801
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Aug 19, 2012
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St. George
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 105
BCC has a few as well. You can modify the search on mp.com to look for these routes.
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cdec
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Aug 20, 2012
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SLC, UT
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 654
We just did Portable Darkness on Devils Castle. We placed two cams the entire route. One to back up an ancient ring piton the other was placed and then found a bolt 2 feet away. It is super well protected even the easy ground. There is no way i would bring a rack again. The rock is good quality but every ledge and edge on the route has loose rock on it. Be careful!
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scott cooney
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Aug 21, 2012
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La Casa Taco
· Joined Feb 2011
· Points: 85
I did portable darkness recently too, great six pitch route, no rack needed. other routes on the castle do require some trad gear to help protect them though.
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ddriver
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Aug 21, 2012
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SLC
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 2,084
Betty's Altered Elbow in LCC Altered States Gully is a 4-pitch bolted 5.9. It is LCC slab with some 20 foot runouts, but it is a bolted multi-pitch in your grade range. We used a couple tcu's but they weren't really necessary. Zephyr in North Creek Canyon (north of Nebo) is what appears to be a 5-pitch sporty, with the first 4 pitches at 5.9. Have not done it. Caveat Emptor. You can find other stuff that meets your grade requirements in the west desert areas, e.g. Ibex, Masada...
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Perin Blanchard
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Aug 21, 2012
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Orem, UT
· Joined Oct 2005
· Points: 8,479
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zoso
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Aug 21, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2007
· Points: 790
Western Grebe pitch 1&2 only.
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Brian in SLC
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Aug 21, 2012
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Oct 2003
· Points: 21,746
cdec wrote:We just did Portable Darkness on Devils Castle. We placed two cams the entire route. One to back up an ancient ring piton the other was placed and then found a bolt 2 feet away. Kinda fun. Those pins were bulk military pitons (Wyott corp) packed in cosmoline. They rust like the dickin's when unprotected. I think their "born on" date was 1977, but, were placed when the route was put up. More for keeping folks on route than anything. See below. Pin on the left is the same as ones placed on the route (as well as a few short blade style pins). Cheers!
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cdec
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Aug 23, 2012
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SLC, UT
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 654
I was wondering about those. They look ancient. Our thought was that the new route may have crossed some undocumented wonderings up there. Good to know that they haven't been out there for 35 years. Thanks for posting.
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Brian in SLC
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Aug 24, 2012
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Oct 2003
· Points: 21,746
When Brian and I did Shadow of the Blade, the first pitch had some old gear on it which looked like it had been placed and bailed from. One piece was an old, long flat bladed piton from Europe. Given the vintage and placement, had to have been there since the early 70's or so. I asked Ted about it...he confirmed a failed attempt back then. Pretty funny.
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cdec
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Aug 25, 2012
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SLC, UT
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 654
My buddy Paul took this. Looks like it has been there a long time.
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