Genocide?

Someone tell me if I'm dumb, but I got on this the other day. Through a small bit of luck I was able to stick clip the twenty five foot high bolt. I looked for gear as I climbed the lower bit, but honestly didn't see anything worth placing near the crux. Is there anything good? Or is it a ballsy solo to the first bolt?

Sounds like the start to every route in Jtree/Tahquitz are you going to carry the stick clip with you up the route when you get to a ledge and find the first pro 25 ft over the ledge? This is where "ground up or shut up" rules take effect. You are truly over the line. This isnt nam there are rules. Next time wear a parachute as long as your going to solo that high off the deck.

"P.S. we will see all about Taquiz, I'm climbing there Thursday. I hear a lot of rumor of its old school stout nature and ground up ethics."

I spent 5 spring/fall seasons climbing at Suicide and Tahquitz. I never felt the routes I climbed to be "stout" for the grade. However, there are some classics that I haven't climbed, and I never climbed anything harder than 11a there. So take my opinion with a grain of salt. And as for the 'old school' nature of it...there's always protection where you need it.

Anyway, not sure why Tahquitz seems to have some kind of reputation. I've found the climbing to be way more straight-forward than say even Lumpy Ridge.

Hope you have a great time in IDY on Thursday. Its one of my very favorite places to climb, and I miss it dearly.

NC Rob I had a healthy dose of sarcasm in the last post that's why I was quoting "the big lebowski". Go get on "the spatula" or any of the routes on the sunshine wall at suicide that area was developed mostly in the "stonemaster" era. Tahquitz was already developed quite a bit but I have a healthy respect for the men who did develop it. I hope you have a great time, unfortunately I moved to the philippines 2 months ago so I wont be able to display my ground up ethics. Believe me I'm no stonemaster I've whimpered and cried about the climb in front of me many times with no choice but to man up. It turns out those are my favorites. the book says many people will come here and do a route with no stars and it will be better than the classics at thier crag let us know your opinion.

I climb enough in NC to know about NC ethics. My question was simple, is there gear below the only bolt on the route for the hardest part of the entire route or not.

For those not familiar with Genocide, it's a gorgeous 11c splitter protected by 12a bouldery climbing to and out a roof.

Sam Stephens wrote:. For those not familiar with Genocide, it's a gorgeous 11c splitter protected by 12a bouldery climbing to and out a roof.

The climb at beauty? It's 11d R through the roof and quite scary. The crack is amazing though.

Yea that one. Is there no good gear to be had before the bolt 25' up? The crack is amazing, I agree.

Sam,

There is marginal gear off to the right of the low crux. Your belayer would have to be attentative to keep you off the deck if you fell at the worst possible spot. Good luck.

Thanks Joe, I'll check it out next time I'm at Beauty again.

I just got back on this thing yesterday (I'd TRed it once before about a year ago) and found good gear. It's safe, but quite pumpy until you establish a stance in the crack. I can't wait to go back and get it clean. Any chance you'll be around this weekend Sam?

Joseph DeGaetano wrote:I just got back on this thing yesterday (I'd TRed it once before about a year ago) and found good gear. It's safe, but quite pumpy until you establish a stance in the crack. I can't wait to go back and get it clean. Any chance you'll be around this weekend Sam?

Getting back on the rig again today. Came so close last weekend. Still don't have it wired, but at least I have a good idea of what I need to do. Hopefully, I'll get her done today.

Burn 1 (Over a year ago): TRonsight without even thinking about gear, just going for it.

Burn 2 (2 weeks ago): Ground up made it to the bolt keeping it safe, but pumped out of my mind. Hung. Made the move out of the roof to establish int the crack and bailed because it was getting dark and my belayer is injured and not climbing and cleaning it while being lowered would have been nearly impossible.

Burn 3 (A week later): RPed into the crack, knowing the gear down low and feeling good, only to be thwarted by direct sunlight and tough sequence in the crack. Hung, figured out beta (kinda), and floated the rest of the route.

Burn 4 (TODAY)???????

Joseph DeGaetano wrote:I just got back on this thing yesterday (I'd TRed it once before about a year ago) and found good gear. It's safe, but quite pumpy until you establish a stance in the crack. I can't wait to go back and get it clean. Any chance you'll be around this weekend Sam?

Hey Sam,

I ended up sending Genocide last night after work. It was beautiful. I'd have to say it felt pretty easy compared with the weekend before when I didn't know the gear down low and entered the crack with a mean pump only to realzize that the direct sunlight was gong to slowly burn the life out of me.

Anyways, I'll be climbing this weekend but not sure where yet (depends on what my partners want to do). Get back on that thing and figure out the gear down low. It's safe. Once you've done that, it's go time.

Joe

Joseph DeGaetano wrote:Hey Sam, I ended up sending Genocide last night after work. It was beautiful. I'd have to say it felt pretty easy compared with the weekend before when I didn't know the gear down low and entered the crack with a mean pump only to realzize that the direct sunlight was gong to slowly burn the life out of me. Anyways, I'll be climbing this weekend but not sure where yet (depends on what my partners want to do). Get back on that thing and figure out the gear down low. It's safe. Once you've done that, it's go time. Joe