??Wolf's Head Accident - Aug. 18/19??

This was starting to become a useful thread that actually enticed some good dialogue and contained helpful info. I hope Moderators step in and clean up the gibberish.

Crag Dweller wrote: Please share with us how it is that you know the advice is legit. Have you ever done this in order to free a stuck rope? For that matter, have you ever employed any measures to deal with unexpected events that put your climbing party at risk?

I have not done that YET. But I freed two stuck ropes one on Haletts peak rappel from the elusive tree another on Monitor rock route called The Nose Route. Both successful. I dropped a rope at BC at castleton crag 5.9 trad route and rapped off on strung up cord and slings to where it was safe to scramble down. No injury. No gear left. That's some of my epic experience thank God its not lengthy but I have made some decisions before. What's yours Craig?

doligo wrote:This was starting to become a useful thread that actually enticed some good dialogue and contained helpful info. I hope Moderators step in and clean up the gibberish.

^^^^ +10

Every thread ends up the same as a drunken conversation in a bar.

BigJuggsjohnson wrote: I have not done that YET. But I freed two stuck ropes one on Haletts peak rappel from the elusive tree another on Monitor rock route called The Nose Route. Both successful. I dropped a rope at BC at castleton crag 5.9 trad route and rapped off on strung up cord and slings to where it was safe to scramble down. No injury. No gear left. That's some of my epic experience thank God its not lengthy but I have made some decisions before. What's yours Craig?

So, you have no experience with these situations at all. That's all.

If there was a way to do it, I think a study of comparing climbing accident rates pre-cell-phones, versus accident rates now would be of great interest.

Obviously, in a specific situation gone bad (which doesn't seem to be the case here), having a cell phone would be a great thing. But I wonder if this easy access to rescues doesn't actually endanger us by creating a broad, false sense of security.

Being ready to properly respond to a bad situation, and having the skills and judgement neccessary to avoid one before it happens, is of far greater value than believing a cell phone is gonna save your bacon.

Flying around in a helicopter in the mountains is very dangerous in the best conditions. I feel bad for the folks that were rescued, mainly because of the harshness being directed towards them here. But I would feel a lot worse if the helicopter had crashed on the way to rescue a couple of climbers with a stuck rope.

Crag Dweller wrote: So, you have no experience with these situations at all. That's all.

Craig what u got? U call it no experience? Get your a$$ on multipitch, get a rope stuck , free the rope get down safely. U got some of that stuff?

Josh Olson wrote: I do it quite frequently while jugging to take pictures. It works, but it doesn't work as well as a gri-gri does. It is more difficult, although not that much, to lower a little bit to change angles. It also has a very small bit of slop as you weight it, the rope doesn't bite as quickly as it does on a gri-gri. It's only an inch at the very most, but inches add up.

Good to hear, Josh, thanks for the feedback. I got the skinny rope version for alpine routes, but keep "forgetting" it since I haven't played much with it in a crag environment except for belays where I have to work with thicker ropes anyway, so it stays mostly in the pack. I have to remember to bring a skinny rope to a crag one of these days.

BigJuggsjohnson wrote: Craig what u got? U call it no experience? Get your a$$ on multipitch, get a rope stuck , free the rope get down safely. U got some of that stuff?

Sure, in one instance, I was at the second rap anchors on a 4 or 5 rap descent when the rope got stuck while hail was falling on us and lightning was cracking above. The descent was on the opposite side of the mountain and the climbing there was above our ability as it was at least 2 grades harder than what we'd climbed. And, there were no good options for pro.

How's your simul-climbing solution going to work in that situation?

What're you going to do? Put both people's lives at risk on terrain that is un-protectable and beyond your ability? Why?

You've got a perfectly good rap anchor on which to anchor the rope and put only one person at risk.

"Don't call for rescue until you kill yourself."

the mp.com self-absorbed motto. I like it.

Jake Jones wrote: LOL! Why did you even respond? I'm brimming with anticipation for the enlightened response that is surely imminent.

Haha, I'm in the midst of packing for a trip and figured why not have some fun. And, I want to make sure that anyone reading this realizes that they should not follow her advice. I figure this creates yet another opportunity to make that apparent.

Omg Craig risked his life for his ripe and his partner in HAIL and LIGHTENING! Let ma guess it was a chick and u were trying to show her some good times dude? Eh? Betcha she is impressed? Wow what a man Craig is!

BigJuggsjohnson wrote:Omg Craig risked his life for his ripe and his partner in HAIL and LIGHTENING! Let ma guess it was a chick and u were trying to show her some good times dude? Eh? Betcha she is impressed? Wow what a man Craig is!

Why do you keep calling him Craig? Just curious.

That's his real name. The Crag Dweller means Craig. A wanna be nomad! Hehehe too soft to give up his cush couch though hehehe

Jon Zucco wrote: Why do you keep calling him Craig? Just curious.

hahahahahahahahahhahahahaa... just ruined my keyboard.

Its Scottish!

BigJuggsjohnson wrote:That's his real name. The Crag Dweller means Craig. A wanna be nomad! Hehehe too soft to give up his cush couch though hehehe

haven't you been banned like 6 times? Why do you keep coming back?

Ah. Just read his profile. Sorry, I thought that you were thinking his name was Craig D. Weller or something. My bad. Ha

Well this thread has died. haha maybe the admins should start locking them as soon as they lose value.

Back to the gibberish. It was great while it lasted.

I disagree. I don't think the discussions lose value until well after the gibberish turns into posting about how it's become gibberish.

BigJuggsjohnson wrote:Rose if you've been around the block a few times enlighten me with your wisdom. Or do u just go cragging all the time? That's how u lead 10d trad?

1987 or so, ropes stuck near top of Prince of Darkness on Black Velvet Wall at nightfall. Lead back up on free end until I reached the other end. Anchored other end and prusiked. Cleared jam, reset rope, rappelled down, pulled rope.

If I hadn't been able to anchor the end, i would have ascended the two strands.