surfing and wave sailing

Olaf, yes, I feel like I hit the surf lottery surfing Sunset with one other guy. We just kept doing laps for the couple hours I was there. As i'd paddle back for another wave he'd cruise by on one and vice versa. In addition to my sister at 'Yards, I also have a brother and his family in Turtle Bay and my parents have a place there as well. In the beginning, I'd just surf Pool Bar when staying there. Over the years my brother, Brian, has clued me in to other surf spots within the confines of Turtle Bay. Last year during my visit in January, I paddled out to Pool Bar. When I got out there I counted another 30 or so surfers competing for the 3 different launching pads. The memory of my brother's beta whispered in my ear. "When its crowded at Pool Bar, I paddle to the middle." Thus I began the 100 yard or so paddle to the middle. As I approached the zone I could see that there was one other surfer. Just as I arrived and sat on my board, the other surfer paddled away head down no words exchanged. He was done. Initially, I just sat there watching the waves, imagining the best take offs. Its a little different surfing alone in the middle of the bay, 150 yards from shore. Soon, I found the pattern and began to catch sweet, couple-feet overhead waves. They actually seemed bigger and longer than anything happening at Pool Bar. After 20 minutes or so of catching waves alone, I watched 5 boogie boarders kicking their way onto the scene. They were high schoolers, locals, and the smiles came easy and the light danced out of their eyes. They whooped it up, cheering each other on. They brought a level of enthusiasm and comradery that I don't see very often among surfers. They'd cheer me on as well. Turned out 2 of them know my brother - he's been teaching for years as Kahuku High School. These were really fun waves and they don't happen all the time. I managed to stay out there for two and a half hours. Finally paddling in with the last of my energy as the the light began to fade. Soon, I was walking across the golf course sending pleasant thoughts of gratitude to my brother Bri who helped make that memorable surf sesh possible.

Didj, Your like a fresh breeze to this thread! Thanks for sharing your stories.
I spent some time on the North Shore of Oahu back in the early 80's.
I lived up near the top of Pupakaia Road past the Heiau with two nurses that worked at Kahuku Hospital Clinic.

I wasn't a very accomplished surfer at that time of my life so I surfed in town on the south side most of the time which was way cool.

I had a Brazilian girlfriend named Dazie that was attending classes in town so I would cruse over with her several times a week. Dazie would go to class and drop me off at da beach and I would surf Waikiki or Ala Moana.

My house mates and friends on the north shore had me spooked about the localism that was a it all time high during that period so didn't really surf the north shore much although I did get some sessions in at the little break by the firehouse at three tables beach and some in Haleiwa.
The memories of that experience stay with me even today and they set the foundation for the life that I am enjoying today.

I might be heading to Oahu in October. Does anyone have any recommendations about how best to try out surfing?

I've snowboarded and skateboarded my whole life and feel like surfing is the "final frontier" so to speak. I would love to get a few good days in and while I have no illusions about standing right up and carving...it would be nice to at least give it a shot on some small waves. I did get out once on the Outer Banks in super choppy conditions pre hurricane (4-6' waves maybe). I had no problem paddling out (decent swimmer), but it was too big and choppy for me to think about dropping in - as I know I would have been pounded into the sand immediately and it was nothing close to beginner conditions. It was really cool sitting out there with the waves crashing and the offshore breeze whipping spray all over.

Ideally I could meet an fellow MP'er who lives there and perhaps exchange some climbing for surfing. I live in Boulder and have a full sport/trad rack and lots of experience to offer if you are visiting Boulder and want to climb on a front range trip one day. Though I'm not opposed to paying for a lesson, given I don't want to go out there alone.

Would love to make it to Maui and meet you Olaf, but I'm not sure this trip will be the one. We do have friends who own a condo there - so there is a chance. Thanks for inspiring me!

Hay Paul,
Look on line for surf schools on Oahu. There are many I am sure. Look into a privet lesson or three with a good instructor. It maybe a bit pricy but will be way worth it.
Your learning curve will be accelerated exponentially.
He will have you paddling in and going down the line very fast.
Forget about all the other sports that you do and are competent at (they just don't really cross over in the beginning) and just absorb the guys knowledge.
In my opinion an older local guy might be your best bet because he is just going to presenting the basics 101 and will have 1000's of past clients under his belt if you know what I mean.
He will teach you valuable ocean knowledge,he will get you paddling efficiently,how to line up at the peak.
He will teach you about timing, wave priority with other surfers,and most of all he will run interference so you can actually get on a decent wave. Since he will be a local and he probably teaches at the same spot a lot he will know most every one in the line up.
South shore Oahu has many brakes and he will know which one is right for your best surfing experience.
I look forward to hearing about your experience.
BTW: I am going to be in Colorado 9/5-9/18 and would like to hook up with other MP'ers maybe for a beer or a moderate route or two.
Aloha, Olaf

Uh ohh, this thread is reaching the magic 40 page, 1,000 post limit. what will happen to all the surf news posted after than?

@ Olaf: Thanks for the tips! PM if you want to get out climbing while you are in town.

i can't wait to get in the water.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:Uh ohh, this thread is reaching the magic 40 page, 1,000 post limit. what will happen to all the surf news posted after than?

It's not over yet, but, That's a good question Woodchuck.

It's been a good run, very entertaining, and a lot of fun sharing my passion for surfing and wave sailing with you guys.

This thread was never supposed to be about me I only wanted to be a participant.

Judging from the number of page views there is an interest in this subject and that's what has kept me posting all this time.

If you guys want we can find a way to keep the stoke here on Mountain Project.

Thanks for the kind words Olaf. Sorry to hear this thread may be coming to the end. Looks like I joined the party in its twilight. I'd certainly appreciate an extension on the lease. I have really been enjoying catching up on all the posts here but still have many pages to go!

Olaf, I enjoy your writing style and all the photos you have been sharing. I enjoy all the other posters writing and photos as well. What a pleasant surprise to find this thread on Mountain Project. I only recently joined MP and it has served me quite well. I just led Free to Choose at the Fortress and only learned about this climbing area because of MP.

Tahiti live now!

Christian wrote:Tahiti live now!

http://billabongpro.com/tahiti12/live-gb

I caught some of it before I left for work this morning.
I hope it's still going on.

Congratulations to Mick Fanning for a hard fought an well deserved win.
The conditions were perfect and the talent and competition was brilliant.

We've got some sweet south swell getting in here for a couple of days.
I surfed two sessions at 1000 Peaks yesterday with some of my friends. we all got a bunch of waves and had a great time.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:Uh ohh, this thread is reaching the magic 40 page, 1,000 post limit. what will happen to all the surf news posted after than?

I suggest starting a new thread, called something like "Surfing and Wave Sailing continued" and running through another 40 pages...

RIP Rodney Howard!

Punta San Carlos has lost a good friend and a little bit of history in Rodney Howard but his spirit and good memories will live on for a lifetime with all of his friends and family! Today we had a paddle out at the Bombora in Rodney's honor followed by an epic surf session for well over 30 people! Rodney you are missed by much more people then you'll ever know! Kevin Trejo

Olaf:

Is that a picture ^ of Mc'gregor's point ?

trundlebum wrote:Olaf: Is that a picture ^ of Mc'gregor's point ?

Very observant trundlebum.

That point thumped me hard and broke my ribs....

Olaf, when you mentioned finding some rock on "the south side" I thought of the stretch from McGregors towards Lahina... Ever walked up the ridge there? I remember a gated road pretty much across from Maleea (sp) that went through Kiave trees (sp) then up into grasslands and on to the border of the thick Ohia rain forest... way the frik up there. There are some gnarly cliffs looking west into the gulch from the top but seemingly impossible to get too.

One of the more memorable hikes I did there.

On the topic of surf.... the whole east coast should be lit up this weekend.... too bad we don't have any reefs to hold a decent swell (in my area anyway) BUT, I will be sans spouse and spawn for the entire weekend begining this afternoon... might even have to/get to break out the Johnny V, 7 footer... I have a lowtide secret spot in mind for dawn patrols Sat and Sunday. I'll post up some pics if it's decent.

Fingers, toes crossed and prayers sent!

Heyun, I have always thought that McGregor Point had potential.
Hope you get a great session Dude!