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> Prow Wall
UnBearable
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in The Prow Wall
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Cotton Mouth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingerbang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gravity Bong T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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power of yesterday, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Prow Wall, The T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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UnBearable T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Evan Stevens, Jesse Huey (w/Jeremy Blumel and Jasmin Caton) |
| Page Views: | 2,981 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Stevens on Aug 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
After climbing 2 of the hard routes on the Prow Wall (there are no easy routes here!) I spotted a line to the top that looked like the easiest way up the Prow wall, thinking it would be nice to do a free route up this amazing piece of stone that wasn't 5.13! The result is a bit easier, sharing pitches from T-Bears and Gravity Bong, with 4 new pitches of stellar crack climbing.
p1. 5.11a. Same as Gravity Bong, originally graded 10c, but expect 11a awkward flare climbing on the bottom half. At the top go up and right to a bolted belay shared with Teddy Bears Picnic and Gravity Bong. 35m, watch for loose rocks on ledge.
p2. 5.10c Walk the ledge at the base of the wall left for 10m or so until you get to a 5.8 ramp with a corner crack that is a little dirty. Go up this for 15m to a stance and then get in the flake crack on the main wall until the nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor (p. 1 of Teddy Bears joins here.) 35m.
p3. 5.11c Same as Teddy Bears p2. 2 bolts on the tips flake/crack and some more cranking bring you to a ledge with a short wide crack. Up this to stance, clip a bolt, and layback the arete on the left to come to a stance at the base of the amazing elevator shaft. Stem, double cracks, jam layback up the amazing shaft to a nice ledge and 2 bolt anchor. 40m.
p4. 5.12a Starts the same as Teddy Bears but goes up and left through the slot at the top of the shaft. Tips laybacking and stemming in the brilliant rock gets you to a chimney stem rest. Bust up and left in the purple camalots out the roof that goes at an easier grade than you would imagine. Follow the feature up and left until you get to the treed ledge with with a 2 bolt anchor. 40m.
p5. 5.11, the Gentleman's Flake, harder for small hands. At the left end of the ledge followed the flake cracks up to the stumps in the overlap flake crack, that can be jammed, laybacked or underclinged, 1 4 camalot at the start of the business and then 3 camalots out the traverse. Pull on the tree to the 2 bolt anchor. 40m.
p6. 5.10 Lots of options, the crux is in the first ten feet. then you can either grovel up the chimney with face holds to a 2 bolt anchor (15m) or traverse left past a chopped cedar stump and face climb on cracks and ledges far left to another 2 bolt anchor by a small tree. Pull over to an awesome top out ledge!
Walk off towards the first summit across the top of the prow wall to gain the 2nd summit trail above the ladder.
p1. 5.11a. Same as Gravity Bong, originally graded 10c, but expect 11a awkward flare climbing on the bottom half. At the top go up and right to a bolted belay shared with Teddy Bears Picnic and Gravity Bong. 35m, watch for loose rocks on ledge.
p2. 5.10c Walk the ledge at the base of the wall left for 10m or so until you get to a 5.8 ramp with a corner crack that is a little dirty. Go up this for 15m to a stance and then get in the flake crack on the main wall until the nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor (p. 1 of Teddy Bears joins here.) 35m.
p3. 5.11c Same as Teddy Bears p2. 2 bolts on the tips flake/crack and some more cranking bring you to a ledge with a short wide crack. Up this to stance, clip a bolt, and layback the arete on the left to come to a stance at the base of the amazing elevator shaft. Stem, double cracks, jam layback up the amazing shaft to a nice ledge and 2 bolt anchor. 40m.
p4. 5.12a Starts the same as Teddy Bears but goes up and left through the slot at the top of the shaft. Tips laybacking and stemming in the brilliant rock gets you to a chimney stem rest. Bust up and left in the purple camalots out the roof that goes at an easier grade than you would imagine. Follow the feature up and left until you get to the treed ledge with with a 2 bolt anchor. 40m.
p5. 5.11, the Gentleman's Flake, harder for small hands. At the left end of the ledge followed the flake cracks up to the stumps in the overlap flake crack, that can be jammed, laybacked or underclinged, 1 4 camalot at the start of the business and then 3 camalots out the traverse. Pull on the tree to the 2 bolt anchor. 40m.
p6. 5.10 Lots of options, the crux is in the first ten feet. then you can either grovel up the chimney with face holds to a 2 bolt anchor (15m) or traverse left past a chopped cedar stump and face climb on cracks and ledges far left to another 2 bolt anchor by a small tree. Pull over to an awesome top out ledge!
Walk off towards the first summit across the top of the prow wall to gain the 2nd summit trail above the ladder.
Location
Do any route on the apron (Rock on, calculus or st. vitus are good warm ups) and walk the trail at the top to get to the Ultimate Everything. Cross under the Kashmir Wall to get to the South Gully. Go up the gully (kind of gross) past a huge stuck flake/block and pull up on fixed lines on left wall of gully. Right before the gully dead ends, you will see a flared crack on the left wall. This is the Prow Wall access pitch, same as gravity bong.
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