Cape Clear Rock Climbing

This is wilderness climbing: no campgrounds, no rescue, loose rock, as close to alpine as you will get in Nova Scotia. Big. Lots of first ascents to be done. Development began in the early 2000's with a number of first ascents recorded on The Wave Wall and Second Tier. These were mostly ground up, gear protected routes with minimal if any bolts. Since then developers have discovered less than stellar quality of rock on most much of the walls. Due to the nature of the rock the current ethic has evolved to include bolts on most routes even next to cracks. When good quality rock is encountered the normal trad ethic of no bolts next to cracks is followed but for the most part, current and future Cape Clear route development will likely include mostly fully bolted sport routes.