surfing and wave sailing

Going right at the cove.

youtube.com/watch?v=7B6cKep…

I had a delightful little glassy waist to shoulder high longboard session on the west side yesterday. It was just me and one other guy so we had great conversation and we both caught plenty of fun right handers for about two hours in the afternoon. Nice summer surfing.

Check out this video of my neighbor and one of my hero's!
youtube.com/watch?v=SBKrWcS…

thanks olaf!

i don't surf, but always like to see this thread pop up...

that shot of the guy -vs- big shark is awesome!

Thanks a lot Cor!

Olaf, you keep reminding me why I need to get back in the water.

Looking at getting into kite surfing but really I should just paddle out.

olaf... thanks for all the work involved in keeping this nice
(this may be the friendliest thread) alive on the proj. :D

Hi Olaf, I recently returned to climbing regularly and my climbing partner clued me in to Mountain Project for which I am extremely grateful. I have been surfing for the last 13 years or so mostly in Ventura, California. Lucky for me, I have family on the North Shore of Oahu and am able to get out there once a year during the winter.

I have only just begun to read this thread and so far it looks awesome. Thanks for your devotion to keeping it alive. I am going to bookmark it and check it regularly.

Welcome Didj, I am stoked to be going back climbing myself! Please feel free to jump in any time.
I just scoped out some new rock yesterday on the south side of Maui and we are scheduled to go back over there this weekend.
I am planning on a trip to the front range of Colorado the first two weeks in September to climb and work on my house.

Thanks Olaf. By far the most exhilarating surfing I have done has been on the North Shore of Oahu. My sister and her family have had a house at Backyards for the last 15 years or so. This has given me the opportunity to become slightly familiar with this surf spot. On occasion I house sit for her. I have seen all kinds of conditions and have surfed there in the winter and summer in big and in small. One of my most memorable experiences happened in relatively small conditions.
2008 January North Shore, Oahu
There had just been a storm. I stood on the picnic table and watched the small swell crash against the reef. The water was brown due to the several inches of last night's rain washing soil into the ocean via the various river mouths. Despite the fact that the influence of the storm continued to wreak havoc, I decided to paddle out in my sister's 8-6 V board. There wasn't much wind and I hadn't surfed for a few days so I just went for it. I grabbed the board out of her garage and soon was making my way towards Freddy's. I prefer to paddle around the reef rather than walk up the channels. I spent 30 minutes observing the chaotic conditions up close. 'Oh well', I thought to my self. Time to paddle in. I decided to get a little more exercise by paddling down to Sunset. Every where I looked it was brown. That was some rainstorm. As I got closer to Sunset I caught a glimpse of someone surfing there. To my utter amazement, the water was clear blue and the swell was producing perfect 3 foot (Hawaiian) waves that lasted for at least 200 yards and there was one guy surfing them.
Needless to say, I surfed these perfect head high waves for the next couple hours until my arms were about to fall off. The waves kept coming and coming without let up. Every once in a while I'd exchange a couple words with the other surfer - he was an Ausie - but mostly we gave all of our attention to this sacred experience. Just as I began to paddle in, 2 more guys appeared. It was their shift. My Job was done. They looked enthralled, salivating at the empty line up and magical conditions.

Thanks for sharing your story Didj.
Not many people can say they have surfed head high Sunset
with only one other person in the lineup.
You are very fortunate to have a great place to surf out of like Back Yards on the North shore of Oahu.
Please share more when you get the urge!
We had a little N/E bump yesterday it was mixed with a N/E wind swell. We enjoyed some out of season wave sailing at my home break(Kuau) here on the north shore of Maui.