little falls

i m looking for some informations to this crag private?
t you

Hey Odile,

There are two separate areas to Little Falls: Moss Island located on the south side of the river and at Lock Number 17 of the Erie Canal and the Dihedrals, which is on the north side of the river.

There are extensive PDF guides for both areas by Gary Thomann online. Moss Island holds shorter TR and some trad routes. The Dihedrals has a mixture of sport and trad and is much taller.

Both areas can be a furnace in the warmer periods due to the black rock color and complete south face orientation. This makes for wonderful cold weather climbing. Both areas are stiff and sandbag, in my opinion. But the climbing is wonderful and being by the Erie Canal is unique.

The access to Moss Island is cool, however, the Dihedrals is located on private property and as such permission must be granted by a phone call.

If you have trouble finding the guides online...I could e-mail my copies to you. I just PM'd you. The guides will give more indepth information and complete historical history of the area.

Good Luck,

AB

I've searched google for the dihedral guide for LF. I can't find it. Would you mind posting it?

The guidebook that Gary T. worked on was an updated/expanded guidebook adopted from Geoff Childs who did earlier guidebooks for both Moss Island and the Dihedrals in Little Falls.

The online guidebook to the Dihedrals area has been removed from online sources due to ongoing conflicts with the new landowner and I have also been informed that a majority of the fixed hardware that was installed over at the Dihedrals has recently been removed as well. Keep that in mind if you plan on doing any sport climbing over there...you might get on a route only to find that hangers etc. have been removed. Unfortunate circumstance with the loss of that property no doubt, there was a bunch of good climbing over there.

You can still contact the landowner to climb at the Dihedrals...$10/pp/day was the going rate last time I was in the area. Michael Lomis is who you're looking for. Lost his cell phone number at some point...i think it's posted on rock climbing.com

I've got a PDF of the CHilds guide if anyone wants it. PM me if you're interested.

Thanks for the info guys.

Pm sent for the guide.

Josh Wood wrote:Thanks for the info guys. Pm sent for the guide.

Blissab wrote: Hey Josh, Did you receive the Moss Island PDF guides that I sent to your e-mail address? AB

Yes, I took the Dihedrals guide off the site. Sorry for that, it has some great climbing and me and my friends spent a lot of time working on it. Then we ran into problems with the present owner and I took the guide off. You may not know that the county owned all the land that the Dihedrals, Recycle Rock, Wind Wall, etc. sat on and sold it in 1999 for $500. Isn't that a bummer.