La Sportiva Mythos (Big Footed Initial Review)

First review here, so let's go!

I found these shoes at a local climbing shop on sale and bought them after trying them on. I wear a 44.5 45 size shoe, so it is somewhat hard to find comfortable shoes. Before this pair, I owned some evolvs.

On to the review!
When trying them on, I loved the "moccasin" type leather and feel. It truly feels like a mini hug on your foot. The lacing system is pretty awesome and allows for a nice fit. This shoe is without a doubt a big wall/edging shoe. I would not recommend it whatsoever for bouldering. I would rather wear my evolvs.

When climbing, the edging is excellent and smearing is great. I have not used this outdoors yet (will be going Sunday or Monday), but I feel this will work well on smooth rock types as well as sandstone.

This shoe will stretch, so be aware. I prefer my bouldering shoe looser than my top rope shoe. So this shoe I got a half size down.

-Adam Link to shoe on LaSportiva Site

Sorry but this shoe is not an edging shoe. It works great edging for about 10 or so pitches and then it quickly gets sloppy. Great for all day comfort, cracks and smearing.

Sorry to disagree but that's my experience with the mythos

Josh Kornish wrote:Sorry but this shoe is not an edging shoe. It works great edging for about 10 or so pitches and then it quickly gets sloppy. Great for all day comfort, cracks and smearing. Sorry to disagree but that's my experience with the mythos

I think the pricy nature of the Mythos has to be for the labor cost of threading the laces. I had to replace my laces after a rodent chewed mine and what a PITA it was. I've found that they actually hug my extremely narrow, low volume feet quite well but they never quite stretched enough to become the all day comfort shoe I was hoping for.

I'm on my third pair of Mythos..... Best thin crack show ever IMHO!!!!!

I typically have to replace the laces after every weeklong crack trip. I just use 2mm cord. Have done it so much I'm pretty darn good at it now.......

Princess Mia wrote:I'm on my third pair of Mythos..... Best thin crack show ever IMHO!!!!! I typically have to replace the laces after every weeklong crack trip. I just use 2mm cord. Have done it so much I'm pretty darn good at it now.......

I've never worn Mythos, but have a pair of Scarpa Technos and a lot of the reviews on those from people who have owned both, were basically a Mythos-like shoe that can still edge. Still great for small cracks and all day trad. On closeout all over, so if you can find your size, they can be up to 50% off.

I wear size 12 in street shoes and went with 45.5 in the Technos. Can leave them on for 5 pitches with only a bit of discomfort. They're my more performance oriented trad shoe. (you know, help me crush 5.7 slab)

Matt N wrote:I've never worn Mythos, but have a pair of Scarpa Technos and a lot of the reviews on those from people who have owned both, were basically a Mythos-like shoe that can still edge. Still great for small cracks and all day trad. On closeout all over, so if you can find your size, they can be up to 50% off. I wear size 12 in street shoes and went with 45.5 in the Technos. Can leave them on for 5 pitches with only a bit of discomfort. They're my more performance oriented trad shoe. (you know, help me crush 5.7 slab)

A small crochet hook is a pretty good idea..... I may have to try that. As for length, I just use about 5' plus, make it equal and then cut off the extra.

A review of a shoe that's been on the market for 21 years.