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Routes in Willow River State Park
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Able S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck S V-easy 3 A0 |
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Brass Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Business Time S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cain S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Chaise Lounge S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Couch Time S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Cypher 2 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Daily Grind S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Doppler Effect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double Trouble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drop Test S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dry Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Fox Confessor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Genesis Effect S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Getting Slightly Higher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Guess and Check S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High Road to China S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hurtful Pleasures S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Jar of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leftovers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Link Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Living Slightly Larger S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Low Road S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Low Road to China S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mermaid S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Middle Cyclone S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Midsummer Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Midsummer Selection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mono Mercy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mono Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Natural Daydreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Natural Selection S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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New Beginnings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Crack for Old Men S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Play Time Is Over S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pride and Prejudice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Quit Your Day Job S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Radioactive Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rejection and Mercy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Requiem S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Speedy Delivery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sudden Daydreams S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sudden Shock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Sermon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Super Bon Bon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Surf Selection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Therapy Couch Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Water Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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White Noise S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Chris Hirsch (??) Mid 2000s (??) |
| Page Views: | 2,427 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | randy baum on Jul 10, 2012 |
| Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Access Issue: Open with restrictions:
Details
Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open. However, from 15 May to 15 Sept, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon.
Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.
Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.
Description
By the mid 2000s, darkness had besieged the chossy steeps of the river Willow. Like Gandalf the Grey in the Two Towers, Chris Hirsch, another gangly wizard, shone light into the abyss. Equipped only with a grigri and some Sobe iced tea, young Hirsch had the foresight -- nay, vision! -- to unearth (literally, this rig was dirty) -- another link-up at Willow, the Mono Mercy link.
Hence that fateful day, the skies at Willow have been bright (however the choss remains, the crowds are bigger, Hudson is still WT...you get the idea). And, in honor of this great achievement, no one has since -- to this author's knowledge -- had the gall to climb this visionary piece of climbing history. So, take up your staff (aka stick clips), grab some magic potions (aka a Sobe), and ride in and send.
Once attired in Gandalf robe and staff, begin on the Mono Route. At the roof that guards the chains for this route, move left and directly tackle the crux of Rejection and Mercy. Finish on Rejection and Mercy, clipping the lower chains (the top are unequalized, which is bad for your rope and for the higher anchor, which receives much more wear and tear than the lower).
Hence that fateful day, the skies at Willow have been bright (however the choss remains, the crowds are bigger, Hudson is still WT...you get the idea). And, in honor of this great achievement, no one has since -- to this author's knowledge -- had the gall to climb this visionary piece of climbing history. So, take up your staff (aka stick clips), grab some magic potions (aka a Sobe), and ride in and send.
Once attired in Gandalf robe and staff, begin on the Mono Route. At the roof that guards the chains for this route, move left and directly tackle the crux of Rejection and Mercy. Finish on Rejection and Mercy, clipping the lower chains (the top are unequalized, which is bad for your rope and for the higher anchor, which receives much more wear and tear than the lower).
Location
Just to the right of the roof crack. Lower off the chains. If working the route, please use your own draws on the chains. This helps prolong the life of the fixed anchors.
Protection
Draws, including at least three long draws (one for the bolt below the chains on Mono; one for the first draw you clip on Rejection; and one for the bolt below the final roof on Rejection). Kneepad is optional if you use/find any kneepads. REMEMBER: KNEEBARING IS CHEATING. I ALSO DO NOT USE STICKY RUBBER OR DYNAMIC ROPES. WARREN HARDING IS MY HOMEBOY.
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