Arm and Hammer
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 271 votes
Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Les Ellison, Russ Jacobs 1979/FFA Drew Bedford, David Casey, Ron George, Karen Kelley 1985 |
Page Views: | 35,374 total · 145/month |
Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on May 4, 2004 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
An amazing route. This is the route with the famous "Zion Curtain". Killer route, great exposure, and nice belay ledges. Ellison had a damn good eye. Make sure you do the pitch above the "Zion Curtain." Go to the small tree, don't traverse left into the gully, at the end of this pitch. If you do traverse, you can lower off some junk chockstones. This route deserves loads of stars!!! this route is free climbed at .11c or aided at 5.10a AO
The pitch after the Zion Curtain has a very short section of crumbly rock but is other wise stellar. DO NOT veer left into the gully to finish this pitch like so many people do. Step up slightly to the right to come up under the roof. Traverse left under the roof and finish at bolts just above the small tree. Super fun finish and still only 5.8, roof protects with a .75, after passing the roof you can use either a #4 or #3 Camalot for pro. Extend both pieces for drag and consider lowering from the anchor to back clean before the second comes up.
Rappel is possible with one 60 meter rope if you rappel to climbers right to gain a bolted anchor on Butcher Knife. (You can skip the first, or do two short rappels, knot the ends). Rap straight down from there to another bolted anchor. Subsequent rappels will hit the same anchors you came up on. Do it this way and your rope won't hang up.
33 Comments