anchoring climbers on multiple rappels

Does anyone know what the AMGA teaches for setting up anchors at bolts for the climbers during multiple rappels? I always just sort of wing it-- sometimes building an equalized anchor, sometimes just throwing in a quickdraw-- but it gets confusing particular when rushing and I would love to know a standard, more efficient, safer method.

In case, this is confusing: Do both climbers clip into the same anchor? Does the first climber at the station build one anchor for both? Is clipping into one bolt okay? Etc.

Thanks,

Jim

When guiding I like to have an equlized anchor for guide and clients to clip in to. I have a simple rig I use that I set up before I begin rapelling. I simple tie an overhand into the middle of a shoulder length sling ( double length if the bolts are spread out). I clip this into the bolts with two non locking carabiners. You then clip a locking carabiner into each leg of the sling, above the overhand. This uses a minimal amount of gear, is easy for clients to clean, and creates a masterpoint for multiple people to clip to. I was shown this setup on the amga rock guide course. Before I begin to rap I pre rig two of these on my harness and they are ready to go when I reach the next rap anchor.

+1. I use the same.

+2

Except I like to use a quad anchor or other self-equalizing system. Seems to be more comfortable with multiple people hanging off of it while providing more equal loading of all anchor points during rappel transitions. Best part about these systems is having the masterpoint to clip into. This keeps the rap rings free of multiple carabiners clogging things up while you're trying to thread the rope.

Once I learned this I never looked back.

This is great stuff. Thanks!

With the overhand knot setup, do you just clip a girth hitch sling from the harness to the the locker? If so, do you untie the girth hitch during rappel or just keep it on? Also, do you clip the bolts or the rings? I find that if you clip the ribgs they can get in the way of the rope but if you clip the bolts the rings can open the gates if the carabiners.

What's a quad anchor?

Jim

Yes clip a sling girth hitched to the harness or use something like a PAS to anchor with. Each climber needs their own personal anchor rig, many options here. I clip directly to the bolts and leave the rings free to make it easier to thread the rappel line through.

jim.dangle wrote:This is great stuff. Thanks! With the overhand knot setup, do you just clip a girth hitch sling from the harness to the the locker? If so, do you untie the girth hitch during rappel or just keep it on? Also, do you clip the bolts or the rings? I find that if you clip the ribgs they can get in the way of the rope but if you clip the bolts the rings can open the gates if the carabiners. What's a quad anchor? Jim

To make a quad take some cord (I use 6mm) and use a fishermans to make it a big loop. Now 'double it up' so the loop will be half it's length and in each hand youll have 2 lines of the loop. Tie an overhand on a (double) bight in opposite ends so when you load the system each line has equal tension. While climbing clip each overhan to a bolt and voila easy equalized redundant anchor with a huge master point. to use this as an anchor clip 2 strands of this between the overhand knots and you're set. This is what I do. Reduces clutter and is super quick to set up.

Leave the girth hitches on. I put an overhand halfway through mine and put the atc/rap device below the shelf of the overhand. It's really handy and puts the rap device in an easier place to manage and increases friction in the system (or so i am told). Whenever climbing with a new climber i have them carry a sling girth hitched to their harness through the entire climb.

Double length sling girth-hitched with an overhand about twelve inches from my harness. I put the ATC on the shelf below the knot and clip into a master point or sometimes a single bolt with the locker on the end. I wouldn't have a new person put it further up because if they have to rap past an overhang, the ATC will pin against the rock.