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Basic setup (climbing out of a hole)

Joshua Griffin · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 60

Great resource, Larry. I will be trying a few different knots as well as different ratio lifts. There seem to be plenty of options without even having special gear. All good stuff to learn just in case.

Joshua

Joshua Griffin · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 60

The dive went great. Thank you everyone who explained things to me. I ascended 150 feet on a dynamic rope with no issues.

Alright, there are many ways to accomplish this task I have found. Here's two slightly different setups I have used. First: the Klemheist.

I found that using a prusik in any part of this setup is not a great idea. Prusiks tend to really lock on the rope and are not easy to loosen. So, first I attach myself to the rope with a Klemheist.



I would suggest using a sling girth-hitched to your belay loop or even better, double the sling first. Here I used a daisy chain. It does not have a huge load rating between loops. Put the Klemheist near the top of your reach when you are hanging on the rope.



Under that, add a Bachmann to the rope.



Attach a long sling to the Bachmann and tie a loop in the end to put your foot in. Make the loop so that the Bachmann will be right in front of your face when hanging on the rope and your leg needs to be 90 degrees to your body when straight. Here's how it should look.



You then stand on your leg sling and move the Klemheist up the rope. Load the Klemheist and slide the Bachmann back up to eye level. Do it again.

Occasionally tie a figure 8 in the rope just below you and attach it to your belay loop. This is incase your Klemheist or daisy chain (hopefully a sling) should fail. You will simply fall to the figure 8 and stop. It is just like being tied in for top roping.

Another option is to use a gri gri or a guide ATC. Which ever one you use, you switch their position relative to the foot Bachmann. The Bachmann will be near the top of your reach and the guide or gri gri will be on your harness.



The closer you have the guide to your harness, the easier it is to pull the rope through when you stand up. Still tie the safety figure 8's.

Teaching a friend in Colorado who caves but has never used this kind of "emergency" setup.


There is another setup you can use that takes about 15 seconds to change between rappelling and ascending. I may post it a bit later if anyone cares.



Joshua
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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