Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Gargoyle Wall
|
Angry Elf on a Shelf T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Big Neon Glitter T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Cloister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Confession T A1+ |
|
|
Gargoyle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Mirabilis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA: Mark Ward & JimKnight 1976. FFA: Bobby Rotert 1983 |
| Page Views: | 6,153 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Budge on Oct 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
One of LCC's best. Killer thin crack liebacking. The crux is placing gear. The second pitch rounds the ear and goes up and past the horn with the slings. Climbing through to the horn in one pitch gives the most continuous climbing and goes to an obvious stance, but requires a 70m rope and the rock just past the original anchor spot is a bit grotty. I've never climbed past the horn, reportedly the rock of the second pitch is of less quality than the first pitch.
Location
Obvious perfect shallow dihedral on east-facing wall across from the base of Intensive Care. One can rap the first pitch with a 60m rope, be careful with anything shorter. Continuing on would require two ropes for the rappel.
Protection
One piton, which still looks fairly solid. The second piton was removed 10/11/07 because it was cracked and redundant, clean pro is found above and below. There are several good nut placements, bring multiples of small TCUs, and hand sizes for the handcrack. Placing gear is the crux for most. The two-bolt anchor with tattered nylon was revised 10/11/07. The 1/4" X 1" bolt was rusted and removed with almost no effort. It was replaced with a 3/8" X 3.5" bolt with a stainless ring anchor. The other bolt looks OK and should be safe, it has a biner with rap ring on it. Thirty feet of unsightly tattered nylon was removed.
For a more continuous pitch, climb past the anchors, around the ear, to the obvious stance under the horn with the slings and biners. Lowering from here requires a 70m.
For a more continuous pitch, climb past the anchors, around the ear, to the obvious stance under the horn with the slings and biners. Lowering from here requires a 70m.
12 Comments