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Front Range 5.12 sport route recommendations?

Original Post
ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

Trying to complete a goal of leading 12a by the end of the year. Looking to project something or a few somethings in the lower 12 range. Any good sport route recommendations for local front range crags? Not looking for "soft" routes just to get a tick, but something really fun or just a good line. What are your favorite routes???

Thanks!

Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 8,318
richard magill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,400

redneck hero

ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

Thanks for the replys. Redneck Hero looks amazing!

Greg Twombly · · Conifer, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 275

Short but sweet in Clear Creek:
City Slicker on Primo Wall (3 bolts)
Hipster on Hipster (5 bolts)
Power Trip on Anarchy (5 bolts)
Good clips make these good first 12's

Ben Cassedy · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 315
Greg Twombly wrote:Short but sweet in Clear Creek: City Slicker on Primo Wall (3 bolts) Hipster on Hipster (5 bolts) Power Trip on Anarchy (5 bolts) Good clips make these good first 12's
Those are all awesome routes.

If you are looking for soft routes to avoid, definitely stay away from any/all of the 12's I've done.

/subtle spray
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Boulder canyon-
Animal World- Animal Riots Activist, Days of Future Passed, maybe Sundog, definitely Cujo Tranquilizer (but more like 12b IMHO)
Vampire- Good, Bad and Jacked, also second pitch of Heart of the Narrows. Both can be led in one pitch with a 70 meter rope.
Black Widow- I like Pipe Dreams a lot, not everyone does.
Easter- Empire of the Fenceless is popular, but I think Telltale Heart is better albeit a little harder.
Coney Island- Joy Ride
Security Risk- Plan B
Sherwood Forest- Prince of Thieves

Clear Creek-
Highlander- Peer Review
Wall of the 90s- Wet Dream
Monkey House- Convicted Felon

Some of these are 12bs, but I think they are all inspiring as projects.

Good luck,

Mark

Justin Compton · · Erie, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 785

+1 Red Neck Hero

JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531

Check out Fission aka Ken T'ank @ the Armory. Its rated 12c but it took me less goes than Wet Dream. Its V4 into 5.9 w/ 2 no hands rest to a V3 finish.

When is the end of the year? Shelf Road has tons of great twelves.

In Boulder Canyon my favorite and only 12 is Empire of the Fenceless at Easter Rock.

You should go to Rifle and do some elevens.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

There's tons of good .12A's up at Devils Head. Its like the dominant grade

David Rivers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

Piles of Trials at Animal World, 12b right next to Animal Riot Activist

PS. I'm Blonde, Gregory Canyon Amphitheater

Mercy Drilling and High Test and Sport Park

Green Panther at Eagle Rock 12c or d, but has great holds and movement. I have not rp'ed this yet but have had 2-3 one hang ascents over the years.

Kirsten KDog · · Edgewater, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 80

Adventure Kayak Trundle, CCC

ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

Great recommendations. Now I just need to find some time to get to work on some of these! By the end of 2012 is the goal. Next up 11a/b on gear. Recommendations? Thinking of the 1st pitch of the Edge...maybe the variation on the Grand Course?

Kirsten KDog · · Edgewater, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 80

Oh, I'll also recommend 100 Proof, in the back of CCC. Great route, but doesn't see much action as there are some shenanigans to get to it (see page for Creekside.)

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
Kbird wrote:Oh, I'll also recommend 100 Proof, in the back of CCC. Great route, but doesn't see much action as there are some shenanigans to get to it (see page for Creekside.)
+1
Rob Eison · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 230

At the Flatirons:
Undertow at the Slab. Best 12b in the front range.
Boys with Power toys is also quality.
The Shaft at Dinosaur Rock

Clear Creek:
Slammer at Wall of Justice
Quartz Sports at Crystal Tower
The Big Dog at the Doghouse.

Have Fun

Elijah Flenner · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 820
ROC wrote:Great recommendations. Now I just need to find some time to get to work on some of these! By the end of 2012 is the goal. Next up 11a/b on gear. Recommendations? Thinking of the 1st pitch of the Edge...maybe the variation on the Grand Course?
Vertigo. Good gear, and amazing position.
Some Dude · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 20
Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

The first pitch of the edge may be more work to get up to for just projecting that one pitch.
Elijah has a good idea w/ Vertigo, getting to the business isn't that much of a hassle.
I'd say that if you want a stellar low end 11, at least in Eldo, go w/ the uber classic Center Route. Easy to get to and the gears great.

And as someone else pointed out, as fall rolls around there's a ton of great 12's at Shelf.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880
Pay Homage
Since you have Englewood listed below your name, this one's a local for you.
Travis24 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30

Power trip at anarchy wall in ccc is definitely a good one to go check off

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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