Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride)
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 199 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | C. Bernal / D .Mabe, 12/02 |
Page Views: | 19,339 total · 74/month |
Shared By: | Wiled Horse on Dec 13, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Climb P1 and P2 of Ride the Snake, for a link-up dubbed "Nice Ride". This was originally approached with the first pitch of Gneiss Route.
P3. 5.9, 40 feet, 3 bolts and gear. Stem up a short dihedral to the roof, clip the black bolt with a long sling, and traverse left (gear 0.5 C4). Pull around the left side of the roof, and climb up to the plush Ashtray Belay (optional small nut).
P4. Stem up dihedral, step right and stretch up to the start of the roof crack (#2 Camalot). Make an airy hand traverse right using the roof crack for pro (#0.75 and #1 Camalot), placing the last piece as high as you can reach. Mantel over the right side of the roof, and clip a bolt to protect the airy and steep crux. Continue straight up over slabs, bulges, and roofs to Surette Ledge. There is an optional creative mid-pitch gear belay above the fourth bolt. 7 bolts and gear, 5.9+/10, 120 feet.
BONUS pitch (10+): once on Surette Ledge, you could traverse all the way right to the last pitch of Wild Child to top out on Mission Wall!
Descent: walk off left across exposed ledge and descend the loose hillside. OR, traverse right to last anchors of Gneiss Route, and rap twice with two ropes or three times with 70m cord, but the better option is to rap Rocketman and require two ropes. Rap 65', then do a full 200' rap. Be very careful of loose rock on the ledge.
P3. 5.9, 40 feet, 3 bolts and gear. Stem up a short dihedral to the roof, clip the black bolt with a long sling, and traverse left (gear 0.5 C4). Pull around the left side of the roof, and climb up to the plush Ashtray Belay (optional small nut).
P4. Stem up dihedral, step right and stretch up to the start of the roof crack (#2 Camalot). Make an airy hand traverse right using the roof crack for pro (#0.75 and #1 Camalot), placing the last piece as high as you can reach. Mantel over the right side of the roof, and clip a bolt to protect the airy and steep crux. Continue straight up over slabs, bulges, and roofs to Surette Ledge. There is an optional creative mid-pitch gear belay above the fourth bolt. 7 bolts and gear, 5.9+/10, 120 feet.
BONUS pitch (10+): once on Surette Ledge, you could traverse all the way right to the last pitch of Wild Child to top out on Mission Wall!
Descent: walk off left across exposed ledge and descend the loose hillside. OR, traverse right to last anchors of Gneiss Route, and rap twice with two ropes or three times with 70m cord, but the better option is to rap Rocketman and require two ropes. Rap 65', then do a full 200' rap. Be very careful of loose rock on the ledge.
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