Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Bruce Cooke & TM Herbert, 1968 |
Page Views: | 14,597 total · 70/month |
Shared By: | 426 on Mar 8, 2007 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
A nice 2-3 pitch route that feels more sustained at the grade than the Line or Scimitar. There are still some loose blocks, especially close to the start, so pay attention to what you pull on.
P1: Follow steep shallow corners and cracks to a decent ledge.
P2: A short pitch (technical crux) over a small roof to the base of the "Tree". This pitch can be fairly easily linked with the first (190').
P3: Follow the crack to a really fun 5.9 roof section to the top. Originally the tree was climbed, but the tree has died.
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