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Elevation: 1,066 ft
GPS: 29.60328, -98.55395
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 136,149 total · 870/month
Shared By: mattm on May 20, 2011 · Updates
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell
Warning Access Issue: Texas Climbers Coalition Property - Now Open DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

NEW! 6/19/20 - MedWall is now back open to the public thanks to Herculean efforts by the TCC and AF.  Please make a donation to help secure future access to the property via the TCC.  Due to limits on access prior to opening, the Walls are still being restored and re-bolted.  As such, routes may or may not be restored, may have changed etc etc.  Descriptions etc will be very limited until things are more polished and complete.  Take everything here with a grain of salt as some info is quite dated and we're still working on updating it all ASAP.

A few reminders:

1. A 30m 'Reimers'/gym rope will not be long enough for all the routes out here. Close the system and tie a knot in both ends of the rope if you are unsure whether your rope will reach or not.  60m recommended.  

2. There is still loose rock in areas. Wearing a helmet while belaying is a good idea. Be cautious and attentive while at the base of the wall.

3. We are fortunate that this area is finally open to climbers. It wasn't by accident - it was through lots and lots of hard work by the TCC and Access Fund working with the City and private landowners. Please don't jeopardize access to the area. Obey the posted rules, be stewards of the land, and be good representatives of the climbing community. If we expect the city, TPWD, private landowners and other entities to work with us in the future, we need to do a good job self-policing ourselves and elevating the climbing community in the eyes of land managers.

Limestone Cliffs up to ~30m. The rock varies from excellent blue rock to blocky choss. Be cautious pulling on anything that seems loose, it probably is.

North facing so it does get SOME shade in the summer but the sun sneaks in when it's high in the sky. It can be COLD in the winter but the sun is easy to walk to to warm up. Each of the areas are really all part of one semicontinuous cliff band. Climbers would refer to different distinct areas as a "wall" and the practice stuck. Think of each "wall" area in the Euro sense of sectors on a larger wall.

Star Ratings are based on climbs ONLY at Med Wall. Don't think for a second that a 4 star route here will rank up there with a 4 Star route in the Valley or Smith Rock.

The local "San Antonio Rock Climbers" FB Page will be your best best for finding partners or other local specific info.  Mods keep it fairly on point as a beta/partner finder/gear swap/tech and learning page.

Picture Compiled of mattm (compiled pictures into one document, route reads left to right) 

Getting There Suggest change

Access to the wall is via the Salado Creek Greenway (paved hike and bike path - really nice!)  Park at the Trailhead inside of 1604, hike north under the highway and then follow the trail west until the walls appear on your left (Budda Belly will be the first prominent one).  Primary access is on short, dirt spur trail past the MedWall sign to the base of Old and New Testament Walls.

Parking / Trailhead​​​

95 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Medicine Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 25
Pediatric Clinic
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
The Pacifist
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 30
Old 5.7
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
Fistula (aka Texas Caterpillar)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
Paging General Surgery (aka Berm…
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Two Cracked Teeth
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Judgement
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 27
Holey Moley
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Accelerated Entropy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Acute Allergic Reaction (aka Cr…
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Adventures in Purulent Discharge
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 22
Brizzy
Sport, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 25
Honeycomb
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 28
Here's to Swimming With Bow Legg…
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Cute without the E
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pediatric Clinic Buda Belly Wall
 25
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
The Pacifist Metro Wall
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Old 5.7 Old Testament Wall
 30
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Fistula (aka Texas Caterpil… Old Testament Wall
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Paging General Surgery (aka… Old Testament Wall
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Two Cracked Teeth Buda Belly Wall
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Judgement Metro Wall
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Holey Moley Buda Belly Wall
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Accelerated Entropy Old Testament Wall
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Acute Allergic Reaction (a… Old Testament Wall
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Adventures in Purulent Disc… New Testament Wall
 22
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Brizzy Buda Belly Wall
 22
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Honeycomb Metro Wall
 25
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, TR
Here's to Swimming With Bow… New Testament Wall
 28
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cute without the E New Testament Wall
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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