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Opinions Maple Canyon routes

Original Post
zenetopia · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 15

Have a trip coming up at the end of August. My question is this: If you HAD to choose, out of all the routes in Maple, (w/ the exception of Zoaster Toaster)what would be, up to 3, MUST DO routes up to .12c?

SM Ryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,090

Do you have one of the new guides? There are lots of routes with stars to get you on the classics, but here is my short-list of the must-dos.
If I had to do only 3 routes - I would do 49, GunTower and Orgasmo.

Minimum you can't go wrong with Zoaster (11d), 49 (12a), Functional idiot (12a) and Space Lord (12b or 12c depending on the guide you have).
At Damuscus Gate the route called 51 (AKA Scoops depending on the guide you have is one of the best 12cs.
At PipeDream- Dry Times (12a) and Orgasmo 12c are must do routes.
At Compound- GunTower (12c), but this one can beat up a bit if you are not used to the angle or heel-hooking.
At Pipeline- Chia Pet (12b) and Predator (12c) are great.
At Wiper Wall- Beaten into Submission (aka Kingline) 12a and the route called Jack-knifed (aka JPR) 12c are classics
Craggenmore- Daddy (12b or c depending on the book) or Popcorn (12b)

Buy one of the new guides :) and you will have at least 50 12s that are awesome and fun.

zenetopia · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 15

Thanks for the input. I have looked at some of those ones as well...I have the guide, but was interested in what were classics for others, not necessarily what the guide says are classics. thanks again.

Kirsten KDog · · Edgewater, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 80

Hmm.....that's kind of tricky because the majority of the climbing at Maple is all the same, it just varies on pumpiness factor. That being said, 3 routes I've always particularly liked are: Dry Spunk, Watermelon Sugar and Zen Master.

In general I'd stick to the Box Canyon, Minimum, Pipe Dream and Zen areas. I think you'll find the best/quality routes there. Have fun, Maple is great!!

Drew_n Nichols · · Park City, UT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 20

Hey, I know they are not in the limelight any longer, but I just really love The Box and the whole shady, mellow vibe in there.

My fav box route is Bolts Not Bitches, 12c, took forever but the moves are really interesting and it is a bit longer than the Ammo Dump routes...

Wish I was there now...

SM Ryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,090

Box is seeing a re-surge in popularity.
I have always liked Brown Hole and Towing jehovah.
Bolts- hardest 12c in Maple. Lots of people give this credit to GunTower...

dbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 25

In Box... Towing Jehovah .12b and In The Meantime .12b are both awesome. Towing Jehovah is usually without crowds.

Outside of Box... Tomaco .12 at Simpson Rock and Orgasmo .12c at Pipe Dream.
Goldenboy .12c at The Pipeline seems quite hard for the grade. Very cool ending on that one.

There are a lot of great 5.12's in Maple!!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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