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Grand Inquisitor
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 44
votes
Routes in 11: Bill's Buttress
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Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiger TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | ???? |
| Page Views: | 3,548 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Burton Lindquist on Apr 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Route starts down at lowest point of Bill's Buttress at buttress prow between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left. The starting moves are unprotected and perhaps a bit hard for the grade and folks usually step into the climb via crack and mantle move from the right a bit. Climb thin crack from said ledge that has both slopey as well as angular footholds around it to a horizontal hold at point of base of loose block. Get good pro with long runners and launch into left traverse via good holds for both feet and hands into the crux of the route where one is forced into a pretty much singular answer crux move. Stay calm and place the obvious wired nut gear placement and tug for the jugs above. Stellar steep climbing through this section and no give away for the grade. Follow featured ledges and cracks on face above and climb up into steep groove/crack above and exit onto upper ledges and blocks. Stay climbing on the prow proper at top to help reduce rope drag.
This is a nice long varied route and make sure to use long long runners all along the route to help reduce rope drag.
This is a nice long varied route and make sure to use long long runners all along the route to help reduce rope drag.
Photos
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