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3 people, 1 rope, big mountain

Original Post
TK421 · · longmont, co · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

ok,

lets see what all of you think about this system. yes, we are probably gonna die... but not today!

anyway, we are gonna do a long rock ridge, about 3 days or so. there is minimal rappelling (a few 100 foot raps here and there) . and there is about 10 or so pitches of real climbing plus other shorter sections. there is a lot of vertical scrambling and descending and hiking as well.

so what i want an opinion on is how crazy would it be to just go with 1 9.5mil rope and have the 2 followers tie in near the end. the other option is my trusty set of double ropes which would ad significantly to the weight - well 10 extra pounds or so- but we are old and lazy.

and yes we all know how to climb, are very comfortable with the grade of climb we will be doing, have been there and done that and i know the risks of each, i just wanted to see what others would think about this weight saving vs. overall stupidity ... and yes, we are probably pretty stupid in just attempting this in the first place.

anyway, have at it.

thanks

i smell a rat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

take the extra 10 lbs. it will help get/keep you in shape and is not enough to consider doing something stupid. That said it sounds as if your mind is made up, so why ask us? Troll?

k. riemondy · · Denver, Co · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 80

Seriously, even for a bunch of old guys, the first flatiron doesn't take three days ;)

But more seriously, the logistics and likelihood of bailing would make the decision for me.

The Flying Dutchman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

I actually just did a climb with 3 guys and one rope this weekend. Spearhead in RMNP. It was a 9.2mm rope and i had the same logic of wanting to go light. We roped for 5-6 pitches. I lead all pitches with a seconder tied in about 20ft from the end of the rope with a figure 8 on a bight and the third tied in to the very end like a normal follower. The pitches we climbned were fairly straight lines on lower angle rock so I had no concern about it. So long as the two followers dont allow too much slack between them I dont see a seriouse issue with this system, and I am open to REFERENCED disagreements because I could not find sufficient evidence to detour me from this idea. Please dont just tell me that its stupid and reckless, have some supporting evidence. But we were also a group of climbers climbing well below our grade where a fall was not likely. I dont see where the safety issue really comes in, people simul climb and a fall would result in the weight of two people hitting a single piece of gear whereas I had an anchor built while pulling up the followers. The figure 8 on a bight does decrease the rope strength slightly but not enough to break the rope if a follower fell and especially on low angle. And as long as the third guy kept the rope fairly taught and didnt try to climb on top of the second guy then there is no risk of one climber falling ontop of the other.

Swiss belays while traversing ridges and self arresting while glacier traveling often times include multiple people on a single rope with a higher potential for a greater dynamic fall and these are accepted techniques.

So long as this climb is below the skill level of the climbers and the rope is solely a life saving device I think it is safe. What you do needs to line up with YOURS AND YOUR PARTIES comfort level though. Dont put anyone into a situation they dont want to be in. Everyone needs to use there personal discretion when climbing

If people didnt push the limits of what was thought to be doable or safe we would have never even begun to rock climb. Because we all know that climbing was dangerous as F*** when it first started. You can sit on your couch and be afraid to take risks or you can get out there and do what others are afraid to do.

Feel free to message me

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

I've done what the flying dutchman described before and it works well on easy climbs. Significantly easier and faster as long as the two followers can keep the rope without much slack and not pull each other. In situations where a fall is pretty unlikely and minor I'll continue to do it.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

A better, lighter option is to take one of your half ropes and a half rack. Have the leader tie into the middle of the rope and belay each second up on half of the rope. Limits pitches to 100 ft(with60m rope) but that generally makes more sense on longer moderate ridges when you have 3 people anyways.

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

+1 for what Kevin said^^^

I've done that and it works very well if your able to keep pitches a bit shorter. Though in most situations I like to have double ropes. The weight difference isn't significant and it makes retreat much easier. You gotta stack odds in your favor. With 3 people you should be able to divvy up gear adequately. No reason not to bring a second rope if you have it, you'll regret it halfway thru the climb.

TK421 · · longmont, co · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

Thanks ya'll.

looks like we are gonna die after all. thanks for all the great feedback. still don't know what we are gonna do but i am pretty sure that the 3rd flatiron will never be the same after we are done with it!

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

I've climbed with a figure eight tied on a bite 20 feet from the last follower. Works great, and a swiss guide I climbed with did the same thing when we climbed as a party of three. Helpfull Hint: tie the figure eight loop about 3 feet long so the person in the middle has some leeway to get gear out, etc without being constrained so tightly to the fall line of the rope. Works pretty well even if the last person hangs on the rope. The second should reclip some piece of gear where a directional is needed. You could also tie a alpine butterfly if you wanted. Have fun!

Ian Cotter-Brown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 10,141

I've used that system alot. Make bomber anchors and it would help if you guys were super solid at the grade of whatever you are doing. Have fun.

EMT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 205

I've done this with 3followers. Used double ropes 2 one one line like yo describe and one on the other belay all at the same time on an auto lockin device . Worked well the follower on the 2person line was some what experienced and the 2 others were total new bees. Did it on multi slab routs at lumpy.

Works great no worries.

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098
TK421 wrote:how crazy would it be to just go with 1 9.5mil rope
Thats a tiny rope. I don't think thats safe to climb on at all.
Devin Krevetski · · Northfield, VT · Joined May 2008 · Points: 140

He is a great instructional video for "Three On A Rope"

youtube.com/watch?v=XvJK5Iu…

Steven Bishop · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 125

^^ That was pretty awesome.

I love how he pulls the handhold off the wall, then replaces it saying it's safer to step on....

Also, the end????....was this the beginning of BASEjumping? lol

brenta · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 75
Phil Lauffen wrote: Thats a tiny rope. I don't think thats safe to climb on at all.
That must be why switching to half ropes would increase the weight by 10 pounds...
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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