3 people, 1 rope, big mountain
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ok, |
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take the extra 10 lbs. it will help get/keep you in shape and is not enough to consider doing something stupid. That said it sounds as if your mind is made up, so why ask us? Troll? |
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Seriously, even for a bunch of old guys, the first flatiron doesn't take three days ;) |
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I actually just did a climb with 3 guys and one rope this weekend. Spearhead in RMNP. It was a 9.2mm rope and i had the same logic of wanting to go light. We roped for 5-6 pitches. I lead all pitches with a seconder tied in about 20ft from the end of the rope with a figure 8 on a bight and the third tied in to the very end like a normal follower. The pitches we climbned were fairly straight lines on lower angle rock so I had no concern about it. So long as the two followers dont allow too much slack between them I dont see a seriouse issue with this system, and I am open to REFERENCED disagreements because I could not find sufficient evidence to detour me from this idea. Please dont just tell me that its stupid and reckless, have some supporting evidence. But we were also a group of climbers climbing well below our grade where a fall was not likely. I dont see where the safety issue really comes in, people simul climb and a fall would result in the weight of two people hitting a single piece of gear whereas I had an anchor built while pulling up the followers. The figure 8 on a bight does decrease the rope strength slightly but not enough to break the rope if a follower fell and especially on low angle. And as long as the third guy kept the rope fairly taught and didnt try to climb on top of the second guy then there is no risk of one climber falling ontop of the other. |
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I've done what the flying dutchman described before and it works well on easy climbs. Significantly easier and faster as long as the two followers can keep the rope without much slack and not pull each other. In situations where a fall is pretty unlikely and minor I'll continue to do it. |
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A better, lighter option is to take one of your half ropes and a half rack. Have the leader tie into the middle of the rope and belay each second up on half of the rope. Limits pitches to 100 ft(with60m rope) but that generally makes more sense on longer moderate ridges when you have 3 people anyways. |
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+1 for what Kevin said^^^ |
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Thanks ya'll. |
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I've climbed with a figure eight tied on a bite 20 feet from the last follower. Works great, and a swiss guide I climbed with did the same thing when we climbed as a party of three. Helpfull Hint: tie the figure eight loop about 3 feet long so the person in the middle has some leeway to get gear out, etc without being constrained so tightly to the fall line of the rope. Works pretty well even if the last person hangs on the rope. The second should reclip some piece of gear where a directional is needed. You could also tie a alpine butterfly if you wanted. Have fun! |
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I've used that system alot. Make bomber anchors and it would help if you guys were super solid at the grade of whatever you are doing. Have fun. |
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I've done this with 3followers. Used double ropes 2 one one line like yo describe and one on the other belay all at the same time on an auto lockin device . Worked well the follower on the 2person line was some what experienced and the 2 others were total new bees. Did it on multi slab routs at lumpy. |
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TK421 wrote:how crazy would it be to just go with 1 9.5mil ropeThats a tiny rope. I don't think thats safe to climb on at all. |
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He is a great instructional video for "Three On A Rope" |
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^^ That was pretty awesome. |
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Phil Lauffen wrote: Thats a tiny rope. I don't think thats safe to climb on at all.That must be why switching to half ropes would increase the weight by 10 pounds... |