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What's your favorite climbing area in Tahoe? (Beta for a short trip)

Original Post
Charissa · · San Francisco, CA · Joined May 2008 · Points: 15

What's the best place to boulder if you have 1 day to boulder and 2 days to sport climb in the Tahoe area (flying into Reno)? Any beta on fun crags or blocs to check out, as well as camping tips or any insider info would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,875

I don't boulder so can't help you there. But Donner has some decent sport climbing at various walls, including a few bolted lines at Snowshed, some at Black Wall, Star Wall, Roadcut, etc. Even Goldilocks Wall (mixed routes) would offer fun, hard climbing in afternoon shade and which all allow TR set-up. You might not spend all day at a single wall but they are all close enough together that splitting your day in half isn't a big timesuck.

Mayhem Cove is another good place to sport climb in the p.m. and a lot of quality routes (southwest shore).

While the Leap has some bolted routes, I would say it is faaaar from a sport climbing destination. People go there for the gear routes and do the clip-ups on the side.

The Spires have some clip-ups too but not that many. Some may require supplemental gear. Again, most people do not go there for the bolted routes. I see a lot of racks at that place.

Big Chief would be okay to climb at in the morning (all bolted). Not as quality as Donner, Mayhem, etc.

michael rowell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

I would say that Donner(star wall has a ton of HARD sport and plenty of other)/Big Chief combo would give you the most bang for your buck sport climbing wise plus the saddle boulders(best bouldering in tahoe hands down imo) are really close to that area.

If you choose to climb on the south shore you got mayhem cove or lovers leap while there isnt as much sport a lot of it is pretty quality at the leap then you could hit up the secrets or south shore spots like bliss/pie shop but those are all blank climbs so if thats your thing then have at it

bergbryce · · California · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 145

There are more bolts to clip on the north shore, but on the south shore Luther Rock and Mayhem Cove are the two best spots which offer quality sport climbing. Most routes at those two areas are 5.10 and above.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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