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Placing gear in Limestone pockets, cracks?

Eric Coffman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 735

if you all havent guessed I dont know how to use this forum, havent figured out how to quote somebody and put it in my post...I admit I dont have techno skills. Im begging somebody to fill me in

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
20 kN wrote: I would not call that an appropriate example to back your claim that falling on cams in limestone is safe.


Man, you and Sam are big on hair-trigger responses. The post was meant to be humorous. In any case, I never said that falling on cams in limestone is safe, so the video could hardly be an example for a claim I didn't make. What I did say, if you go back and actually read it, is unquestionably true.

And although the video certainly doesn't prove anything about falling on cams on limestone, the fact remains that it documents a very meticulously planned ascent. Arnaud could have chosen any cam in the world, and the choice he made reflects my comment that Totem cams, in their size range, are probably the best bet for limestone. In that sense, maybe the video is appropriate after all, eh?

Will they work on every type of limestone known to the human race? Of course not. Anyone can invent hypothetical examples for their failure. Any cam can and does fail on any type of rock for that matter.

If you are going to head into unknown territory, might as well go with the tools most likely to work. That was my point.

David Sahalie wrote:Sam has put up scores of routes on limestone and says gear is unsafe. Yet, trads insist that putting gear in limestone is just fine.
The propensity of people to hear just what they want to hear is almost unlimited. Sam never said "gear is unsafe" and whoever the "trads" are supposed to be never said "gear is fine."
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
Eric Coffman wrote:if you all havent guessed I dont know how to use this forum, havent figured out how to quote somebody and put it in my post...I admit I dont have techno skills. Im begging somebody to fill me in
Eric, if you hit the quote button on the upper right of a post, you will open a response window with the entire post quoted. If you just want to quote a piece of the post, the full version can be edited down. Or you can type quote=Eric Coffman ...quoted material... /quote, with the opening designator ``quote=Eric Coffman'' and the closing designator "/quote" inclosed in angle-bracket signs (the "less than" and "greater than" keyboard symbols).
Superclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 1,310
rgold wrote: Eric, if you hit the quote button on the upper right of a post, you will open a response window with the entire post quoted.
experimenting with quote= thing
Superclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 1,310

Cool, didn't know you could do it that way.

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

Hair trigger response? Hmm. I just tried to answer the question. I actually have two chipped teeth from a cam popping into my face fro a parallel limestone placement... I've also climbed a number of routes in Europe where cams worked fine. It depends on the placement, but overall they don't work as well as they do in granite. But I'm not seeing how I had a hair trigger.

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

Technically, I have a 1.5 pound Mauser trigger.

Rogerlarock Mix · · Nedsterdam, Colorado · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 5

Damn Sam, that's a hair trigger for sure!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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