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Lower Exum to Owen Spaulding?

Original Post
Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

Has anyone done the lower Exum to the Owen Spaulding? I'm looking of changing my route plans from climbing the lower to upper exum. I have the Teton guide book and looked at MP and I haven't seen any beta. The topos I have dont show enough to see how to get from the lower exum to Spaulding. Any help is appreciated.

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

You'd do it by bailing off Wall Street (which is where the Lower Exum tops out, more or less) and retracing your approach along the Dike to the lower part of the Owen-Spaulding couloir and hiking a couple thousand feet to the Upper Saddle, where the O-S proper begins.

Is there a particular reason you're wanting to do that? It would be very impractical, as you'd lose a ton of time descending off Wall Street and subsequently regaining that elevation hiking up a couple thousand feet of choss to do a couple of pitches that aren't near the caliber of the Upper Exum.

I can't really see why anyone would want to do this... hope I didn't just get trolled!

George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,050

It's possible, but seems an odd choice. From the top of the Lower Exum, you'd reverse Wall Street (only one move, really), then scramble up to the Upper Saddle and do the Owen Spalding. I suppose this might be faster than continuing on the Upper Exum, but the Upper Exum is way more fun!

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

You could, but why would you do that? Upper Exum is far more fun than OS. And if you went to the trouble of doing lower Exum, then UE would be cruiser icing on the cake. It'd probably be faster than OS too, provided you were ok simu-climbing most of UE (which you probably would be if you just climbed LE).

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

Thanks guys. I'm brining the girlfriend up and she's a slower hiker. I was looking to make up time if we got to the top of the LE later than we anticipated. I figured there would be some elevation loss that would have to be gained but I hoped the easier climbing would make up for that? Guess it's unanimous to stick with the lower to upper.

George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,050
JLP wrote: I really doubt it. Nobody does this. You'd loose considerable elevation and add about a 1/4-1/2 mile of up/down traversing on unspectactular terrain - then end up in the back of the line for the belly crawl behind a bunch of gumbies - then probably get zapped in an afternoon thunderstorm.
I disagree with the "lose considerable elevation" part. You lose only 100-200 feet going down Wall Street, then no more elevation need be lost. It's a straight shot up the couloir to the Upper Saddle (no need to go back left to join the standard approach). But I do agree it is a bad idea and it might not be any faster ...
George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,050

Ryan, I faced the same decision when I took my gf up there (now wife) 20 years ago. My decision was to climb only the Upper Exum, and it turned out to be the right one. If we had climbed the Lower Exum we never would have summitted ... just one data point for ya!

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Are you hiking in on the same day? If you camp at the Saddle, then that should take hiking speed out of the equation. Take a day to get up there and find the start of the route, then fire it the next morning. That way you can be as slow hiking in/out as you need to be. If the speed of walking in/out is really of that much concern (ie if one person is slow), then I'd really think hard about the feasibility of doing this all in a push.

And I'd agree with George. If I had to cut something out in the interest of time, it'd be LE, not UE.

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Agree with both posters above.

If you're really concerned about time and whether or not your partner's up to it, you should probably be thinking in terms of Upper OR Lower Exum, not both. IMO the linkup is best enjoyed when you aren't worried about whether or not your partner will be able to keep up.

Of course it's super easy to bail from Wall Street if you do arrive at the top of the Lower Exum outside your time frame...

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

That's a great idea to cut out the lower exum. Never thought of that. We are planning on hiking in one day camping at lower saddle then climbing next day camp that night and hike out in morning. I know it sounds like enough time but I'm dealing with a SLOW climber/ hiker. I'm planning on leading all pitches/ simul but we average about 6-8 pitches in 10 hrs. I'm heading up on Wednesday so I guess we make a decision when we get to the lower saddle. Thanks again for the help

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

Upper Exum without the lower is very common and direct. Even for a slow party it's do-able from the saddle (or other camping spot) in a day.

Even for fast roped parties, lower+upper Exum from the saddle is usually a long day. Generally people doing the whole shebang solo most of the upper.

So, if you consider your party slow... I suspect you'd end up finishing the Lower Exum with just enough time to head back to camp along Wall Street. Not a bad thing, maybe, especially if you have another day available to grab the summit.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
JLP wrote: Okay, noted, but that gully is loose and often choked with snow, so I don't think it's a given. Now that more details have come out - suggest you do OS. It's a fine route, and if it goes well maybe you'll actually still have a GF next year to try something harder with. The aesthetic and difficulty differences between OS and upper Exum are nothing, but the OS will go much faster for a beginner as there is considerably less technical terrain and route finding. Everyone talks about the Exum, but the OS gets the majority of non-guided ascents, by far. Go figure, it all seems so much easier from the keyboard. After the hike and seeing that thing in person, plans generally change. If it's your first time on the mountain, it's an even better idea, as you will learn the descent route on your way up. You really need to be knocking out 6-8 pitches at the grade in ~2 hours, not 10, to have any chance on the Lower Exum.
I'd strongly disagree that OS and upper exum are aesthetically equivalent. UE is amazing and OS...not so much IMO.

And 6-8 pitches in 2 hrs? I think that's a bit of an overstatement. It's been a while since I've done it, but I am pretty sure I've never been fast enough to climb at 15-20 min per pitch! The lower exum is what, 6 pitches? Even if you are half that speed and doing 30-45 min per pitch, that's plenty of time to get through LE, as long as you can simuclimb UE (which you almost certainly can of you're able to climb the lower pitches at 30-45 min per pitch). Even at half your speed, you'd be on top by early afternoon. Nice to err on the side of caution and all, I just think that was a bit of an exaggeration.

It might be nice to see OS so you know the way down. In fact, it took us a bit to find the beginning of the descent, but once we were on the right track and headed down OS, it was pretty obvious.
lynne wolfe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 25

We are in a monsoonal weather pattern right now, lots of afternoon buildup and boomers. You have gotten some good advice, follow it and be on top by 10 am, heading off the lower saddle by 1 if possible.

Have you seen the Wyoming Whiskey site? Great resource: wyomingwhiskey.org/

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

Yea all info is great it's exactly what I needed. And yea I checked out wyomingwhisky.org excellent site.

BigJuggsjohnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 220

good info! with a bear canister plus all the camping/climbing gear its gonna be a long day hiking for sure! potentially going up The Upper on the second day then trying The Lower (harder) on the third , hiking out on the fourth may sound like a good plan too. It will all depend on the weather and the ease of familiarizing ourselves with the terrain. New terrain is always challenging. Summit would be really nice! :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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