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Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in The Tan Buttresses
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anniversary Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Astro Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Black and Tan Towers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dog Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fallen Angel T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Goat Food T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hard to Say T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hoag-Fisher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lazy Sunday Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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MOAC Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Musafar's Home Cookin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Noth'N But a Good Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Space Miser T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Work-Life Balance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | T. Roy, B. Collett, July 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,526 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Collett on Jul 23, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Not that I'd know how it feels. This is the first route to the top of the tallest tower on the Tan Buttresses. It has some choss, but the crux pitch is great steep crack climbing on mostly excellent rock.
1) Climb into the corner system and follow it to a grassy ledge shared with the first pitch of Dog Fight. Follow a ramp up and left until your rope or rope drag requires you stop. 5.9.
2) Continue up and left along the ramp until a pleasant dihedral is reached. Belay at the top of the dihedral below some steep roofs on a nice ledge. 5.7. Pitches 1 and 2 are a combined 320 ft.
3) Traverse right under the roof directly above the belay and climb up an overhanging corner system to get established on the slightly less than vertical wall above. Head right into the prominant chimney system and follow that until you are below a fantastic looking finger and hand crack that breaks off to the left of the chimney system. 5.10 130ft.
4) Follow the finger and hand crack for 80ft or so, traversing right at the top of a pegmatite band into a steep chimney system. Follow this over an overhang and belay. 5.11+/12- 100ft.
5) Continue up the chimney system to the top of the wall. 5.8 50ft.
1) Climb into the corner system and follow it to a grassy ledge shared with the first pitch of Dog Fight. Follow a ramp up and left until your rope or rope drag requires you stop. 5.9.
2) Continue up and left along the ramp until a pleasant dihedral is reached. Belay at the top of the dihedral below some steep roofs on a nice ledge. 5.7. Pitches 1 and 2 are a combined 320 ft.
3) Traverse right under the roof directly above the belay and climb up an overhanging corner system to get established on the slightly less than vertical wall above. Head right into the prominant chimney system and follow that until you are below a fantastic looking finger and hand crack that breaks off to the left of the chimney system. 5.10 130ft.
4) Follow the finger and hand crack for 80ft or so, traversing right at the top of a pegmatite band into a steep chimney system. Follow this over an overhang and belay. 5.11+/12- 100ft.
5) Continue up the chimney system to the top of the wall. 5.8 50ft.
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