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Routes in Main Wall
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Blue ox S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Captain Cook T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Desert storm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Log jam T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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South Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spacious Enterprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunken Treasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sunset Streaks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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War on terror S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Rick Piggot (solo!) |
| Page Views: | 8,749 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Kimmerly on Nov 12, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Nesting Advisory
Details
Go to Alliedclimbers.org for more information on the seasonal nesting advisory for the west side of Corte Madera
Description
This is a gear-protected route with gear belays. Pitch breakdown is subjective. Here's how I would do it next time...
P1 5.10a 120': Scramble up the ramp, carefully stemming past the yucca to the steep OW and squeeze chimney. A cruxy section of OW & lieback moves gets you to a rest, then more squeeze chimneying and stemming gets you through a second crux and up to a nice belay (med. gear) just above an old bolt.
P2 5.9 190' (or 2 pitches): Lieback up the flake to a wide crack. Face climb and stem up to a rest midway up the crack, then either chimney in to place pro or lieback up the wide crack to the small roof where it pinches off to tight hands. Lieback up over the roof, then wander straight up thinning cracks and face climbing to a short splitter just right of a large bush. Belay at the large dirt-covered ledge.
P3 5.8 120': Climb up the sparsely protected face directly below the roof and choose to pass the roof on the right (original route) or left (our choice). Passing the roof on the left involves some tricky liebacking and stemming around the corner of the roof to easier stemming in a wide crack. Belay somwhere above.
P4 5.easy 100': Scramble up easier terrain to the top of the formation.
P1 5.10a 120': Scramble up the ramp, carefully stemming past the yucca to the steep OW and squeeze chimney. A cruxy section of OW & lieback moves gets you to a rest, then more squeeze chimneying and stemming gets you through a second crux and up to a nice belay (med. gear) just above an old bolt.
P2 5.9 190' (or 2 pitches): Lieback up the flake to a wide crack. Face climb and stem up to a rest midway up the crack, then either chimney in to place pro or lieback up the wide crack to the small roof where it pinches off to tight hands. Lieback up over the roof, then wander straight up thinning cracks and face climbing to a short splitter just right of a large bush. Belay at the large dirt-covered ledge.
P3 5.8 120': Climb up the sparsely protected face directly below the roof and choose to pass the roof on the right (original route) or left (our choice). Passing the roof on the left involves some tricky liebacking and stemming around the corner of the roof to easier stemming in a wide crack. Belay somwhere above.
P4 5.easy 100': Scramble up easier terrain to the top of the formation.
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