Type: Trad, Sport, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mark Hammond and Amos Whiting, Nov. 2010
Page Views: 2,583 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Nov 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb the shallow corner/seam until it bends left and join the arete. Make a key placement and balance up to clip the first bolt. The crux is in this vicinity.

One more bolt and the #4 Camalot will take you to the rubbly ledge at the dead tree.

Pitch 2 steps left and up arete into corner. Aim for the upper arete, clipping the final bolt to get there. Climb straight up the arete, protecting in horizontals.

Location Suggest change

Start from the optional belay stance at the end of the 5.9 climbing on the Green Spur.

Protection Suggest change

RPs to #4 Camalot. Could probably get by with nothing bigger than a #2 although I placed the #4 on both pitches. HBs, C3s, small Aliens are key. Consider ballnuts, I think a good one may go where I had a very shallow C3. This climb could be R rated without the right tiny gear or the skill to place it.

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