Whipping on Links

Technical analysis aside, is anyone actually comfortable whipping on a link cam?

For me, its more of a panic piece to plug and take. Then I'll usually plug a real cam in.

Thoughts?

Yes. Why not?

Ryan Nevius wrote:Yes. Why not?

Well, they just seem so much more sensitive. I've heard far more stories (and seen pictures) of failed link cams than all other cams combined. It just doesn't inspire confidence.

I understand that links must be placed properly (i.e. perfectly in the direction of fall, all lobes fully inside the crack, etc.) but the reality is that cams walk (especially links).

I guess its that they seem so delicate.

alexdavis wrote: Well, they just seem so much more sensitive. I've heard far more stories (and seen pictures) of failed link cams than all other cams combined. It just doesn't inspire confidence. I understand that links must be placed properly (i.e. perfectly in the direction of fall, all lobes fully inside the crack, etc.) but the reality is that cams walk (especially links). I guess its that they seem so delicate.

I placed a link cam on lead for the first time a couple weeks ago. It was a wandering alpiney thing and the gold LC was the only piece that I had on me that would fit as we brought my partners Link Cams instead of doubles. I would have traded that cam in a half second for a tri cam or even just another #2 camalot. It went in the placement but even with a 4 ft sling it walked around a bit and became worthless once I got a couple body lengths above it. People talk about liking them as "oh shit" pieces but unless you're climbing splitters AND extending the hell out of them I wouldn't trust them.

Too many examples out there of the fail mode of a link cam kicking in just when you don't need it to.

Don't get me wrong. I love the idea and it's a pretty kickass proof of concept but someone needs to take the technology to the next level before I'll ever carry them again on anything but straight up splitters or an aid/bigwall climb.

No.

for the most part.

I've seen too many fucked up link cams for comfort.

I always save mine for anchors or if I absolutely need something

Josh Kornish wrote:No. for the most part. I've seen too many fucked up link cams for comfort. I always save mine for anchors or if I absolutely need something

Why carry them then?

JohnWesely wrote: Why carry them then?

They are nice to plug and take if you don't want to take a fall. Then you can plug in some real pro.

JohnWesely wrote: Why carry them then?

I have only one and I carry it as said for building anchors.

They definitely have their place

The red Link Cam caught my first ever trad lead fall.

I was cleaning an aid pitch once and swung out on one that immediately disintigrated... I don't trust them anymore.

I've fallen on both gold and red. I don't know that I've "whipped". I've certainly hung on them and built anchors with them. Mine still work fine, though the springs aren't quite as springy as they used to be.

That being said, I've jacked up both Metolius and BD cams taking whips. The Metolius kind of got kinked, and the action on the BD was just never the same.

Really? Another link cam thread...

I'll grab the horse, who's bringing the whip?

ive whipped multiple times on all of mine ... though im sure there are plenty of people more hardcore than me here that dont consider 20 ft+ falls on gear whippers ...

that said ive also pulled my purple after multiple falls on it ... backed up below of course

absolutely make sure you put a draw/sling on em ... ill usually prerack em like that if i expect to use em throughout a crux

they are not a beginners piece ... there are definately things to watch out for when using em ... not all of em mentioned in the instructions

slk wrote:Really? Another link cam thread... I'll grab the horse, who's bringing the whip?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xbt30UnzRWw

Bah.

I took a 30 footer on the Red Link Cam. Taken plenty on the others as well. Plenty of good reviews on them: pullharder.org/2011/09/11/l…

The links are great for many reasons as just a single set w/ the addition of your friends/c4's. They're a specialty piece and most people don't know how to place them correctly... it's not rocket science.

And you should always expect the unexpected and place a reasonable amount of pro and have redundancy. Gear can rip out even in the most excellent placement, especially in sand stone.

Link cams are the new pink tri-cam when it comes to fixed pieces.

Ive taken and fallen on them plenty. Only whipped on them when in the ideal parallel placements. Its true they don't inspire the most confidence which has sometimes inspired me to not fall and just send it (stupid reason to like a cam, but the next one down will keep you off the ground, right?). I do love them for parallel liebacking, roof traverse underclinging, and walking them up parallel cracks that are changing size (thin hands becoming fingers is desparate and they help). Great for an anchor piece. All things considered, I still only have one and its always on my rack.

I think the "anchor piece" argument is pretty dubious. It is not hard to build anchors with the regular cams and nuts that are left at the top of a pitch. Sure I screwed myself a few times as a gumby by placing way too much gear on a pitch and not having enough for the anchor, but link cams and anchor pieces are not the solution to that problem. Link cams don't fix gumby.

Does anything fix Gumby, other than experience or injury/death?

Iv fallen on all four sizes multiple times, especially on the red and yellow’s. never had one pull yet. My only complaint compared to the BD cams is that the link cam stems bend/get tweaked very easily and the trigger wires brake very easily too if you fall on them and the wires are pulled over and edge. Iv broken the trigger wires on the yellow and red multiple times however OP is very good about replacing them for FREE!, just mail them in and they will replace them. Other than that they are a great cam dont know why there are so many bad review about them online.

Rick Mix wrote:Link cams are the new pink tri-cam when it comes to fixed pieces.

Difference being that you won't find the tri-cams mangled beyond all recognition.