Sport Anchors
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If you put up a route somewhere and it gets lots of traffic (or is a stellar route) and you think it deserves sport anchors. However, you want to get the most thick (1/2") caribiner, but they are to expensive. Does anyone know where to get a good price on a steel 1/2" caribiner? |
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gordwah wrote:If you put up a route somewhere and it gets lots of traffic (or is a stellar route) and you think it deserves sport anchors. However, you want to get the most thick (1/2") caribiner, but they are to expensive. Does anyone know where to get a good price on a steel 1/2" caribiner?Yeah, this question is difficult to understand. Are you sure you don't mean "Quicklink" or "Rap rings"? Certainly not carabiners... |
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I think by "sport anchors" he means fixed 'biner lower-off's. Maybe... |
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I'm going to assume that this isn't a troll, but rather someone who may not speak English particularly well. I assume you want to put up an anchor with a carabiner to lower off (which Fixe does call "sport anchors") like this: |
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I've lowered off of both snap hooks and the fixe biners and I think they both are convenient, but they won't be for you (the route establisher). People will top rope off these biners and if they are as popular as you say they will eventually get worn. Yeah they are steel and better than alloy biners but a couple years down the line they will have grooves that become a liability and you will have to spend money replacing them. Chains are cheaper and you can cut the lowest link when it becomes an issue. |
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Two steel quicklinks (3/8" or 1/2") per anchor (total of 4 for the anchors) is a good setup. Most won't attempt to top-rope directly through them so these anchors should last longer. Or spend more $ and get an anchor set from Fixe. |
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I put double ring anchors on all my routes. They last a long time, and since they rotate there is no easy place for rope grooves to start. |
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Euan Cameron wrote:I put double ring anchors on all my routes. They last a long time, and since they rotate there is no easy place for rope grooves to start.One would think, however I'm always surprised at how many ring-anchor systems have grooves on opposing sides of the rings. I always try to rotate them to half-way between the grooves to put my wear on a not-so-grooved spot on the rings. |
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+1 for the Mussy Hooks linked above. Cheap, quick and easy. I love seeing those at the top of a route. Should withstand many years of lower-offs and replace easily. |
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I've looked into this a lot. I've talked with Climb Tech about plated vs SS, wear etc. I've also looked at pretty much every other option out there. Down here in TX the corrosion issue is moot. They'll wear out before they corrode badly is what I'm told so the cost difference does play a role. Mind you this is an easily replaceable item. All my bolts are still 100% SS. Other Plated Steel Biner options: Fixe sells a nice Plated Steel Captive-Pin WIRE GATE for $10. The space for the chain is larger and will accommodate 3/8in chain. I prefer the wire gate as it seems to do a bit better with the gate action not getting sticky when debris falls on it. This is probably my preferred Steel Biner right now. Camp sells their nice looking notch-less one for $10. The pin can be removed with a small allen wrench. Not sure what size chain it will fit. You can also go the "Mussy Hook" route. Popular in the ORG and Bishop I think. Essentially winch hooks and big quick links. VERY wear resistant but you need to be more mindful of how you place them to avoid the rope rubbing the back of the gate. They're also not quite as easy to clip. That said, if you do these right they're my favorite current setup. --- Invalid image id: 107144084 --- You can use these with chain if you watch that there's no chance the rope with rub the gate. (Never seen it happen with mine but read it can happen on lower angle stuff) My Mussy hooks have a deep basket so the gate isn't close to the rope. I also bend the back gate edges over to make them smoother. You can find hooks like this online for $3ish. Big 1/2in quicklinks for sub $4 if you look. So $14 an anchor setup. Add chain and more QLs and it gets a bit more but it's a REALLY SLICK setup. If you need to go STAINLESS your options are more limited AND the costs go up. A lot. The only thing I've seen that looks nice is a setup by Edelrid called the Flexor Steel BUT I don't think you can get it in the USA yet. Maybe an email to Elelrid NA? The biner is SS. Other than that, in SS you're probably going to want to go SS QLs with a SS Ring. One REALLY interesting SS option that I'd like to try is the "Pigtail" by Jim Titt's Bolt Products. It's 12mm SS and, if used with SS QLs, would have several setup options. Hey Jim! Any chance these will make it across the pond? |
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Go easy on the kid guys... |