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Recommended ropes - Climbing trip around CO, maybe Longs Peak

Original Post
thomb · · Bath, England · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Hey all,

Just packing for a trip to Colorado next week. We're flying in from the UK so can't bring more than three ropes. We'd like to tackle Casual Route if we're feeling fit, but want to be able to climb at a variety of venues around CO.

So, what to bring - 50m half ropes(& one 60m single), 50m twins (& one 60m single), or two singles?

I'd be interested to hear if half-ropes (8-8.5 mm) are used at all, so far I've only seen twins and singles mentioned.

I'm currently thinking that 2 x 50m twin ropes would be good for Longs & other alpine routes, and one 60m single for lower down stuff/retreating to indoor gym if raining. Would be very grateful for your input, cheers!

thomb

Bryan Vernetson · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 130

Doubles and twins aren't really popular in the USA. Climbing in Europe i know you guys use them for everything, but over here we typically use a single and carry a second for long abseils if needed. I would recommend 50m doubles and a 70m single. I have 60m 7.7mm twins and use those almost exclusively for ice/alpine. 70m singles are increasingly popular here, and in most places in Colorado that aren't high alpine, a 70m will do pretty everything you need.

Hope this helps.

bv
www.whiteknuckled.com

thomb · · Bath, England · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0
BryanV wrote:..I would recommend 50m doubles and a 70m single. I have 60m 7.7mm twins and use those almost exclusively for ice/alpine. 70m singles are increasingly popular here..
Thanks Bryan, good to hear. We don't actually own a 70m rope - how limiting will a 60m be? Are there any crags you'd recommend avoiding for this reason?

Cheers,
thomb
Julius Beres · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 364

I agree with BryanV. I climb most routes in Colorado either on 60m half ropes or 70m single. In most cases 50m doubles would be adequate length wise...

As for the 70 vs 60, I would say it depends on where you are headed. If you want to do some sport climbing, many of the crags in Clear Creek and a few other places need a 70 to get down with one rope. That being said, if you have one of the half ropes to tag, you can always rap down. I've also found the 70 useful for making rap offs easier at some places in Eldo (avoid 4th class downclimb), but you can get down everything there with a 60...

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266
thomb wrote:and one 60m single for lower down stuff/retreating to indoor gym if raining.
Coming from GST you will be all set for alpine starts. Most rain here starts in the afternoon, the early part of the day is all but guaranteed to be sunny.
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

I would say that very few sport routes in Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, Rifle, etc require 70 meter ropes. There are a few, some of them classics, but you will find plenty of other classic routes to climb with your 60 and can save some money by not buying another rope.
Mark

CanDillo · · The Great State -Colorado · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

A 60M rope and 60m 6/7M tagline are my go to rope quiver for anything "Alpine" in Rock Mountain National Park. Climbed the Casual with a 60M and tag with no issue. If you prefer to use "doubles" 60 M ropes will get you up nearly anything in the Park, Eldo, etc. The only reason I own is 70M is for Clear Creek Canyon and if you are traveling from the UK to climb, there are much better places to hit before there, IMHO.

thomb · · Bath, England · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks to all for your input! Nice one Dan - perhaps a single & tagline is the way to go, not a large expenditure and best option for weight saving.

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

You don't need to run out and buy a 70m rope. I use 60m half ropes for the routes on the Diamond on Longs, and I would use 50m twins in a hearbeat if I owned some. The main reason for the halfs or twins up there is to make retreat easier if needed. You won't have to leave as much gear if you are making your own bail anchors, and if you rap off of table ledge or from chasm view, the raps require double rope raps. I think 50m double rope raps are ok for the table ledge rap, I've only rapped off the diamond once, and with 60m ropes I think we had 10m of slack on each rap.

You could do the Casual Route with a single 60m if you traverse Table Ledge and then continue up 5.4 terrain to the summit, do 2 short raps down the slabby north face, and then walk off on the hiking trail or camel gully descent. It is just more expensive if you decide to bail as you will be leaving alot of gear.

As far as a single rope for around Colorado, you will be fine with a 60m rope and your twins or halves. Only a few sport routes require 70m to lower, so climb these with your twins, or tag a twin up there.

You will definitely want to visit Eldorado Canyon. I use a single 60m rope there and it works great. Double 50m ropes work really nice there too.

Long story short--you know how to use your half/twin ropes so a 35m sport route isn't going to be a problem for you (get a guidebook). For multipitch trad, most people here don't use a dual rope setup, but it is not because it doesn't work. The routes don't wander that much so twins should be fine but I'd bring whichever dual rope setup you normally prefer.

thomb · · Bath, England · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks David.

After discussion with climbing partner, I was persuaded that a 60m single + tagline combo might be a lot of hassle for multiple rap situations, as the tagline (being so thin) can get badly tangled after each rap.

We decided to take just a pair of 50m twins. This may mean leaving some gear behind on the odd abseil (I've read that around the Petit Grepon area there are some 60m raps, and elsewhere I'm sure)

Thanks for the helpful insight, all. Maybe see you in CO!

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

I agree with the above except I always use double ropes (60m) for big climbs. In case of bad weather or an emergency it sure is nice to be able to get down instead of having to top out. And IMO many routes wander, especially at Lumpy and in the South Platte.
Rocky Mountain National Park should definitely be on your list. Super climbing!!

I rarely ever use 50m ropes.......

I use a 70m rope a lot, very useful for many modern sport routes, for Indian Creek and Vedauwoo.

Have fun!!!

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

I believe last year someone added gear rap anchors on the Petit so that they could rap the whole thing with a single 70m rope. If those are still up there you should have no problem with two 50m. I think something similar was done on the Saber which is next to it, but I have always walked off the Saber.

Adrian Hill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2002 · Points: 15

I'd bring double 60m ropes, to have maximum flexibility for RMNP.

Most indoor gyms (at least in Boulder) have ropes, so don't bother
to bring one for indoors.

Petite Grepon definitely used to require 60m ropes, but David's
omment about rebolting for a 70m rope should be easy to confirm
(anyone?).

Have a good trip.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

With 50m's I'd just be sure to really do your research on what your climbing.

I'm not 100% sure on your statement about the tagline being tangled after every rap. No one really seems to have a problem and why leave gear behind if you don't need to?

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410
Adrian Hill wrote:I'd bring double 60m ropes, to have maximum flexibility for RMNP. Most indoor gyms (at least in Boulder) have ropes, so don't bother to bring one for indoors. Petite Grepon definitely used to require 60m ropes, but David's omment about rebolting for a 70m rope should be easy to confirm (anyone?). Have a good trip.
It hasn't been bolted for a 70m rope rappel, but I thought someone had added nuts and slings to facilitate a 70m single rope rap.

I read through all the comments on the petit and dug up an old thread and I think I was mistaken in that they added the rap stations to the Saber not the Petit. See here. I haven't gotten around to doing a link up yet, but my take away from the thread was that it was possible to rappel most of the way down the Petit with a 70m rope, and some nuts would possibly have to be left on the last 2 rappels if you continued to the base. (I didn't intend to continue to the base but instead cross over to the Saber)

If you want to rap the Petit only on bolts then yes dual 60m ropes seem necessary, however from the comments on the petit there is alot of tat up there to facilitate intermediate anchors if needed with 50m ropes, and many of the bolted raps are 160'.
thomb · · Bath, England · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0
David Appelhans wrote: ... dug up an old thread ...See here.
i have just read the thread and looked at some pictures - looks like a really awesome piece of rock, definitely hope to visit. may try and do a link up, perhaps go for the Sabre & the Petit in a day... we'll have to see how it goes!

thanks to all for the contributions, appreciated. i think we're going to stick with the twins - keeping things light & fast!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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