Sport Anchors

If you put up a route somewhere and it gets lots of traffic (or is a stellar route) and you think it deserves sport anchors. However, you want to get the most thick (1/2") caribiner, but they are to expensive. Does anyone know where to get a good price on a steel 1/2" caribiner?

gordwah wrote:If you put up a route somewhere and it gets lots of traffic (or is a stellar route) and you think it deserves sport anchors. However, you want to get the most thick (1/2") caribiner, but they are to expensive. Does anyone know where to get a good price on a steel 1/2" caribiner?

Yeah, this question is difficult to understand. Are you sure you don't mean "Quicklink" or "Rap rings"? Certainly not carabiners...

I think by "sport anchors" he means fixed 'biner lower-off's. Maybe...

Don't have a cheap source for steel biners, personally. If it's a lower off scenario, I usually just leave aluminum biners/stainless quick links as lower off's on the (relatively) less frequented routes here in NC. As long as you use good quality bolts and hangers, the quick links and biners can always be changed out after they're worn. But I know Fixe is one company that does sell the rig, though it is pricey.

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I'm going to assume that this isn't a troll, but rather someone who may not speak English particularly well. I assume you want to put up an anchor with a carabiner to lower off (which Fixe does call "sport anchors") like this:
fixehardware.com/sport_anch…

But you don't want to spend $60+ per anchor. ($30+ for each steel biner).

A cheaper solution is to use "snap hooks" sold for boating. They should be plenty strong for lowers/top roping, be thick enough to not wear out, and be resilient to the weather.

You can get these as cheap as $4.40 for one rated up to 1000 lbs (or cheaper for a thinner one):
uscargocontrol.com/Rigging-…

You can get a couple of steel quicklinks for a couple of bucks and then attach these to the hangers on a plain anchor for less than $10/set.

The "hoist hook w/latch" is an even cheaper and beefier option. For $3.70 you can get a galvanized one that is rated to 1500 lbs.
uscargocontrol.com/Rigging-…

Hope this helps. (and if anyone thinks it is worth spending the insane markup for Fixe's "climbing anchors" rather than just buying beefy boating links, please explain why... yes, the boating clips aren't tested to the same standard as climbing gear, but this is for a top anchor, not something to whip on, there will be 2 of them, and at 1500 lb/clip, it seems more than adequate to me. I've seen people use them around here, and I've always trusted them...)

I've lowered off of both snap hooks and the fixe biners and I think they both are convenient, but they won't be for you (the route establisher). People will top rope off these biners and if they are as popular as you say they will eventually get worn. Yeah they are steel and better than alloy biners but a couple years down the line they will have grooves that become a liability and you will have to spend money replacing them. Chains are cheaper and you can cut the lowest link when it becomes an issue.

Two steel quicklinks (3/8" or 1/2") per anchor (total of 4 for the anchors) is a good setup. Most won't attempt to top-rope directly through them so these anchors should last longer. Or spend more $ and get an anchor set from Fixe.

I put double ring anchors on all my routes. They last a long time, and since they rotate there is no easy place for rope grooves to start.

Fixe Anchors

It also mean folks tend to use their own draws if they are top roping the route, which is good for everyone.

Euan Cameron wrote:I put double ring anchors on all my routes. They last a long time, and since they rotate there is no easy place for rope grooves to start.

One would think, however I'm always surprised at how many ring-anchor systems have grooves on opposing sides of the rings.

I always try to rotate them to half-way between the grooves to put my wear on a not-so-grooved spot on the rings.

+1 for the Mussy Hooks linked above. Cheap, quick and easy. I love seeing those at the top of a route. Should withstand many years of lower-offs and replace easily.

I've looked into this a lot. I've talked with Climb Tech about plated vs SS, wear etc. I've also looked at pretty much every other option out there. Down here in TX the corrosion issue is moot. They'll wear out before they corrode badly is what I'm told so the cost difference does play a role. Mind you this is an easily replaceable item. All my bolts are still 100% SS.
In climates where moisture is a constant issue, SS for the hooks/biners might be worth it? Especially if usage wear won't be that dramatic.

I agree 100% with non-integrated systems. Those Fixes systems cost a TON and if a part wears out, you're out the WHOLE shebang. I like cheap and replaceable UNLESS corrosion becomes a major issue. Then I'd look into SS biner options I get into below.

For Plated stuff: I'd get a bunch or 5/16th or 3/8in quicklinks, 5/16th GRADE 43 chain and STEEL captive pin biners. Climb Tech sells theirs alone for $6.95 I think. They're big and nice BUT the captive-pin won't let you use chain bigger than 5/16th and it's TIGHT at that. The pin is a pound in type so you'll need at least pliers to get the pin out. If you look online you can get quicklinks for $2 or less and chain for less than $2 a side. (6 links say). So you're looking at $22 for a complete anchor set up not including bolts/hangers.

Other Plated Steel Biner options: Fixe sells a nice Plated Steel Captive-Pin WIRE GATE for $10. The space for the chain is larger and will accommodate 3/8in chain. I prefer the wire gate as it seems to do a bit better with the gate action not getting sticky when debris falls on it. This is probably my preferred Steel Biner right now.



Camp sells their nice looking notch-less one for $10. The pin can be removed with a small allen wrench. Not sure what size chain it will fit.


You can also go the "Mussy Hook" route. Popular in the ORG and Bishop I think. Essentially winch hooks and big quick links. VERY wear resistant but you need to be more mindful of how you place them to avoid the rope rubbing the back of the gate. They're also not quite as easy to clip. That said, if you do these right they're my favorite current setup.
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You can use these with chain if you watch that there's no chance the rope with rub the gate. (Never seen it happen with mine but read it can happen on lower angle stuff) My Mussy hooks have a deep basket so the gate isn't close to the rope. I also bend the back gate edges over to make them smoother.
Titt Bolt Anchor with SS QLs to G43 Chain to PS QLs to Mussy Hooks. Good To Go
Mussy Hook Close Up - Note the gate clearance above the rope. No rubbing here.

You can find hooks like this online for $3ish. Big 1/2in quicklinks for sub $4 if you look. So $14 an anchor setup. Add chain and more QLs and it gets a bit more but it's a REALLY SLICK setup.

If you need to go STAINLESS your options are more limited AND the costs go up. A lot. The only thing I've seen that looks nice is a setup by Edelrid called the Flexor Steel BUT I don't think you can get it in the USA yet. Maybe an email to Elelrid NA?
The biner is SS. Other than that, in SS you're probably going to want to go SS QLs with a SS Ring.



One REALLY interesting SS option that I'd like to try is the "Pigtail" by Jim Titt's Bolt Products. It's 12mm SS and, if used with SS QLs, would have several setup options. Hey Jim! Any chance these will make it across the pond?

Go easy on the kid guys...

The mussy hooks are the best setup I have seen for high traffic routes. In Colorado, i'd put them in with 1/2 inch, plated bolts (not stainless). The hooks can be found for a reasonable price at most hardware stores. As noted by other posters, make sure you get ones that are deep enough to avoid the back of the gate rubbing on the rope. I like the idea of rounding off the back of the gate.

The benefit of the mussy hooks is that the routes take much less time to clean, hence leaving the route open for other parties to hop on. They are easier to top rope off of too, which is going to happen, whether you like it or not, on a popular route.

All that being said, I don't think I'd put the hooks on something until you know the route gets a bunch of traffic. Therefore, a couple of quicklinks will make a cheaper solution until you do. I wouldn't expect any route outside of the denver metro area to really need the mussies at this time.