A couple of Gunks questions...

Anthony Baraff wrote: I'm sure you've got a lot of experience, but I'd have to agree with GMBurns' edits of your post. The Swain guide is awful compared to Dick's two most recent guides and the Brauhaus has very good food but is completely slammed Friday and Saturday nights causing long wait times and screwed up orders.

I think that's a bit harsh. The Swain guide is certainly useful and has all the crags in one book.

AOSR,

Leave a few QDs at home and bring more shoulder-length runners. The routes tend to wander way more than at home. One of the greatest aspects of the Gunks is that no matter what the grade, there are classic, quality routes. A fun town (New Paltz), great climbing, I disagree with the linking pitches for the visiting climber comment. Once you get past the east coast shtick, climbers you run into are very helpful with pointing you in the right direction. Go with a hit list, get to the base and climb. Little need for multiple guidebooks. Enjoy.

Morgan Patterson wrote: Go to a Phish show and when you have to crap and you'll know why those urinal standing things are a god send.

While I am certain that you have something to share, I cannot for the life of me figure out what it is.

Please tell me you didn't crap in the urinal attachment in a porta-john.

Somewhat amusing thing about the Creekview bathrooms.... The bottom of the stall door is about 6 inches higher than the toilet seat and faces the door. If you have to take a shit, anyone entering the bathroom gets a nice view.

Eric G. wrote: While I am certain that you have something to share, I cannot for the life of me figure out what it is. Please tell me you didn't crap in the urinal attachment in a porta-john.

HaHaHa - NO - I'm def not that guy... or the one who smears their poo on the walls! No if you have several hundred men peeing in the urinal and they are aiming for the hole things get messy quick. The stand up additions make the portos a much cleaner place... just sayin'

ZachR wrote:Somewhat amusing thing about the Creekview bathrooms.... The bottom of the stall door is about 6 inches higher than the toilet seat and faces the door. If you have to take a shit, anyone entering the bathroom gets a nice view.

Wonder if the owner has cameras installed too...

Sorry all for being a little terse with my last comment. Was dealing with some of my first world problems at home.

I still vote for the brauhaus though.

Todd Ritter wrote:AOSR, Leave a few QDs at home and bring more shoulder-length runners. The routes tend to wander way more than at home. One of the greatest aspects of the Gunks is that no matter what the grade, there are classic, quality routes. A fun town (New Paltz), great climbing, I disagree with the linking pitches for the visiting climber comment. Once you get past the east coast shtick, climbers you run into are very helpful with pointing you in the right direction. Go with a hit list, get to the base and climb. Little need for multiple guidebooks. Enjoy.

will do. i climb a lot of alpine and have tons of runners. better to bring a couple regular 70s or my skinny 50m doubles?

Eric G. wrote: While I am certain that you have something to share, I cannot for the life of me figure out what it is. Please tell me you didn't crap in the urinal attachment in a porta-john.

so you're telling me pooping in urinals is frowned upon in your neck of the woods?

Dana wrote: I share you're feelings about this.

Its not to clear weather they got that won.

AOSR wrote: so you're telling me pooping in urinals is frowned upon in your neck of the woods?

We're a bunch of uptight east-coasters.

JSH wrote:Doubles, hands-down. Much better for rapping. Pro tends to wander a lot, especially at higher grades (or so I am told) - doubles make a difference here.

I know that folks that use doubles love them, swear by them, etc., but can we stay away from absolutes which are really just opinions? Most raps at the Gunks can be done with a single 50 meter rope. I've climbed a number of Gunks climbs at "higher" grades including a bunch of sketch fests and find that a single cord along with proper slinging works just fine.

AOSR wrote:Myself and a few buddies are heading to the Gunks in Septmeber. None of us have ever been there before. We're flying in and renting a car. Questions: 1) Camping situation? It looks a little undesirable from what I've read. But, we are camping so I'd like to determine the best option. In a perfect world we'd like a really nice place to ourselves where we could have a gigantic fire and play loud music all night without bothering anyone. In reality, we'll take what we can get and be respectful. If there's better, less restricted camping somewhere close we'd be fine with a little commute to the crag each day as well. Thoughts? 2) I have a pocket-sized copy of The Gunks Select. Will that suffice? It looks pretty reasonable. 3) Any other beta someone traveling there for the first time might find useful? I look forward to both the serious, useful responses and, of course, the ridiculous I'm bored at work and have nothing better to do in between trolls responses. Let'm rip, and thanks. -Eric

Hey I have camped at Creekview and it was adequate. I wasn't camping with any females, however, so I may have missed out on the latent creepiness that was lurking there.

People on this thread don't seem to realize that The Gunks Select IS the Williams guide. It is an older edition with highlights from all the cliffs. It is probably the best single book for you if you are a one-time visitor. The only thing is if you are totally unfamiliar with the cliffs the Select book may add to your confusion when you are trying to locate the start of your chosen climb, because not all the climbs are included. Just don't be afraid to ask other climbers if you are in the right spot and you will be fine.

You can not have a campfire in Slime.

At the MUA:
- campsites are shared - three tents allowed per site. So, if you have 2 tents, don't wonder WTF if someone else puts a tent in *your site.* - the sites are marked in the MUA and you will get a ticket for camping outside a designated site.
- there is no trash can at the MUA - so be prepared to pack out trash you make. It is very uncool to leave trash for everyone else to have to see/smell.
- the toilet at MUA is rank. BYO TP

No matter where, it is rude to be bellowing and playing music in a public campground after quiet hours. Why is this so difficult for people to understand, even after decades of people complaining about loud camping neighbors?

I think the Select is fine, unless you are going to be there for more than a few days.

Drinking water is not readily available at the cliffs, so be prepared ahead of time. Since you are flying in, most likely you will purchase some water in jugs. Save them so you can refill, or else you'll be spending absurd amounts on water. There is a convenience store at the corner of 299 and 44/55(a mile from the Trapps), but water there is expensive last time I looked. And....it seems to me that lately the store is not restocking items as a business normally would.

One place, in town of New Paltz, where water jugs can be refilled is at the Community Garden. As you are heading west, just before the bridge as you leave town, turn right(at the Gilded Otter). Go north on that street, and when it veers to the left for the Water Treatment plant and community garden(I cannot recall the sign info), take that small road. There is a water spigot near the front part of the gardens.

another option for water is the visitor center; they are open from like 9-5.