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In need of an XXS harness for a friend

Original Post
redlude97 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5

One of my climbing partners is currently using an XS Mammut Vision climbing harness that was the smallest women's harness we could find at the time, it went down to 23.5". When completely tightened it still is a little loose on her on the waist and the legs, she's like 5' 100lbs or so. Things have been fine with the harness until this weekend when she took a slightly penduluming lead fall. In the process her harness twisted and pulled to the side quite a bit(the tie in points ended up by her hip) and it caused her to flip due to the weight shift.
We've been trying to find a good solution for her, but there doesn't seem to be any women's harnesses that are any smaller than that. I've posted a picture below showing the fit of her current harness.


The one option we are considering is a kid's harness such as the BD wiz kid rei.com/product/819456/blac… but it only has 2 gear loops and no haul loop. We will sometimes use the haul loop to anchor her down so it is nice to have, and the missing gear loops are a downer due to her needing them when following on trad routes and such since racking on a sling hurts her shoulder. Does anyone have any good suggestions for a harness that would work well for her?

Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365

maybe contact Yates about something custom?

redlude97 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
John Wilder wrote:Misty and Yates will both make (or already do) make a harness that will fit her. One note- you shouldnt anchor anyone with the haul loop- thats a good way to get a crushed pelvis- you should anchor off the belay loop instead- much more comfortable and easier to manage.
Like I did in the pic? Usually its the preferred option but sometimes the only available anchors are much further away from the wall then we'd like.

I'll contact both companies, neither of the XS's go down small enough currently
Kelly P · · The Bubble, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 10

Have you tried Petzel's xs women's harnesses? They fit both Sasha Digulian who is 5'2" and 95lbs, as well as myself at 5'3" and 105lbs

redlude97 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
Kelly P wrote:Have you tried Petzel's xs women's harnesses? They fit both Sasha Digulian who is 5'2" and 95lbs, as well as myself at 5'3" and 105lbs
We had initially tried the Luna XS and it fits roughly the same as her current harness, its still a bit loose. I'm guesstimating at the 100lbs also, she may be a bit lighter
Edit: we must have tried the Luna S since it doesn't come in XS, are you using the Selena? We might have to try to find one of those locally
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Have you tried a kids harness like the BD Whiz Kid? It's pretty small but only has 2 gear loops on it.

Ty Morrison-Heath · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 2,053
Woodchuck ATC wrote:Have you tried a kids harness like the BD Whiz Kid? It's pretty small but only has 2 gear loops on it.
(Snark) Ding ding ding we have a winner of not reading the OP. (/Snark)
Matt Roberts · · Columbus, OH · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 85

If you do go the kids harness route, avoid the wiz kid, BD claims it is not for lead climbing use (probably lawyers talking, but then again, I don't like supporting companies who let their lawyers do all the talking)

Singing Rock make two sizes of kids harnesses, though w/ only 2 gear loops. The bigger one ought to fit the bill. The mammut kids harness is really small, though it has been a fave for my kids.

Jeff Thomas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0
mistymountain.com/p/5030-Pr…

Misty Mountain Primo Kids harness. Small size goes from 22-24 inches.
Have them sew on a couple extra gear loops. They'd probably only charge 5-10 bucks extra.
Cindy · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 20

If you're nearby (I'm in Highlands Ranch and do get to Golden regularly) I have a Black Diamond women's harness from a few years back that is XXS and you're free to have it. After having my 2 boys in the last 5 years I am apparently an XS now (sigh...) and it just doesn't fit. If I should ever be small enough for a XXS again (she says dreamily) I will happily buy something new then. This one has only minor wear as I used to buy a new one every year since I climbed a lot at the time, it's been stored in a cabinet indoors ever since. Let me know if you're interested.

p.s. I am also 5'1" and like this harness because it doesn't have too high of a rise like so many of the other women's harnesses do.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Ty Morrison-Heath wrote: (Snark) Ding ding ding we have a winner of not reading the OP. (/Snark)
You're right....I missed the paragraph under the pic..thought that was the end of the posting....sorry.
Kelly P · · The Bubble, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 10

Yes I am using the Selena XS, fits pretty well, nice and light! maybe try it on, based on the picture, she doesn't look to be much if any smaller than I am, so worth a shot! Good Luck :)

Kenny Thompson · · Cottage grove oregon · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 560
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
amad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

EDELRID has a couple small harnesses for women.
Are smaller than the most common XS or S.

edelridna.com/index.php?dis…

amazon.com/Edelrid-Leeloo-C…

D W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

This is good information.  My dtr is graduating this year from Grn Mtn HS and is ready to start climbing.  She is 5'2" and 95 lbs.  We just started looking for a harness for her. We will try some of these, odd time to be looking since she can't try them on.  Any recommendations for her with fit?  Not sure what to advise her when trying on belts (my husband has climbed a bunch but not sure with her size what specifically to have her think about).  Thank you.

Alan Emery · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 239

A lot has changed since 2012 in climbing gear.  Have you considered looking at kids harnesses?  It's the size you are concerned about, not the age.  If she fits into a good kids harness, then go with that.

Sarah Z · · Golden · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 542
Alan Emery wrote: A lot has changed since 2012 in climbing gear.  Have you considered looking at kids harnesses?  It's the size you are concerned about, not the age.  If she fits into a good kids harness, then go with that.

Jumping in on this really old post…. Kids harnesses have a weight limit of 88lbs I know I tried to get one

OlivierB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 96

Trango Liberty. We fit our 90 lb daughter with it and it is comfortable as well as having 4 gear loops. Size range (waist) for a small is 23-30".

Ben Podborski · · Canadian Rockies · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 10

Grivel harnesses (especially the Trend line) go very, very small in the waist. 

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

If the DMM Tomcat is in your size range, I think it is tough to beat:  https://dmmwales.com/climbing-products/harnesses/tomcat

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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