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Buying a new rope: Sterling vs Beal vs Edelweiss

Original Post
Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106

Well, it's time to retire my trusty old Sterling Marathon 10.1, and I want to get something a little slimmer. I've narrowed it down to 3 options: Edelweiss Curve 9.8, Beal Diablo 9.8, or Sterling Evolution Velocity 9.8.

I know people love the Velocity, but does anyone have any experience with the other ropes?

The main appeal of the Curve and Diablo is the price (read: cheaper than Sterling), but I'm also interested in the tech: the "HD Sheath" on the Curve and the "Unicore" on the Diablo. Anyone know if they are any good?

And what about possible cons? I've heard that Edelweiss ropes can be stiff and aren't very durable. The "Unicore" on the Diablo has apparently won some awards, but I haven't found any real reviews on it.

Any input is much appreciated!

Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30

I have an Edelweiss 9.5 (I think the older version of the energy, got it last year) that I love. In that year, it's seen about 4-5 months of constant use, with sporadic use the rest of the year, and it's still in great shape.

The rope was very supple right out of the bag too. It's also bi-pattern, which is a great feature.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

sterling...last you long time!

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Sterling seems to be the rope of the day these times. Stay with a good thing.

Darby S · · Snoqualmie, wa · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 0

My Edelweiss isn't too stiff but it frayed super quick. Quickest I've ever seen a rope show ware. It looked beat up after the first week, no joke. I have the 10.5 sharp, so some of the other lines might have a different outer sheath.

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

I have 3 edelweiss ropes and I don't know where the notion that they are not durable comes from. Mine have been lasting great and they are plenty soft. Usually a great price on edelweiss too, especially from bentgate, so maybe I should start telling everyone how much they suck so no one catches on that they are premium ropes for a bargain.

Jeremy Hand · · Northern VA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100

I love my Bluewater Pulse 9.9 personally. Just the right amount of stretch and a great handling sheath.
I'd goto justropes.com and just see which ones you could get the best deal on; but then again, I am a dirtbag.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

Maxim 1 over 1 twill pattern models (Glider, Pinnacle, etc) have the best "hand" of any rope I've owned and seem to show less sheath wear over time. They do have slightly higher impact forces than other brands. I've beaten on one for 10 years that went from my main rope to my Joshua Tree rope (sharp grainy rock that eats ropes) to my TR/minitrax rope...still using it for that purpose, still isn't fuzzy.

They're made in the US, and several models/diameters with this weave on the sheath. Worth looking at for sure. Personally, I'd never buy a Beal rope, but that's me. Every one I've climbed on was disappointing in some way.

For the comment on the "HD" individual strand braiding, I'd think that a weave like that would actually have less surface exposure of sheath threads and thus would wear better, similar to the twill pattern 1/1 of some of the Maxims. Purely conjecture, my theory could be totally wrong.

Sterlings are good. Only downside to me is that when they are new, a skinny one is SUPER slippery with that coating. Belaying someone taking whips on an ATC type device and a new skinny Sterling is more exciting than you might expect.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

I had a brand new sterling Velocity 9.8. I did one rap with the rope cleaning a route on Gniess rock (smooth fine grained not sharp) and the thing had a HUGE core shot in it... I was not impressed at all and would have ended up decking if I had been on it another 10 minutes cleaning. Quite literally, this rope almost killed me or caused serious serious injury on one rap. I inspected the rock where the rope was, thoroughly looking for any sharp edges or crystals etc that could have been the obvious thing that cut through the sheath and core but couldn't find anything...

The sheath was not smooth and in a belay device it was jerky, choppy, and very difficult to feed out consistently. Furthermore, the dry treat was so slippery that even when using an ATC and a belay glove you couldn't stop the rope from sliding through the ATC when the climber was resting on the rope. . . It was a horrible experience from beginning to end. It was a $200 rope that got used 4-5 times for actual climbing... In my 17 years of climbing it's the worst rope I've ever used. A friend suggested the rope may have had a tight thread but I've not sent it back to Sterling yet... probably should see what they have to say.

My Maxim however has been the best rope I've used... it's been a trusted partner for years having been used on sharp rocks like Rumney Schist to trap rock to Joshua Tree Granite and never a shot through the sheath. After 5+ years now the rope barely even has much fuzz on the sheath despite years of use and hundreds of ascents. To be honest I think the rope could be almost 8-10 years and it still looks great but since it's so old (and way past it's fall limit) I'm thinking it just needs to be retired.

EDIT: WOW Will S basically beat me to the punch but it's cool to see you've had literally the exact same experience both with Maxim and Sterling.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50
andy hughes wrote:Mammut
Most durable ropes out there, as far as I can tell. I love my Supersafe. Heavy at 10.2, but it's been through hell and looks new.

My Sterling Nano is a bit fragile (it's 9.2, so that's expected), and the soft hand is nice, but makes it tangle and kink easily. I still love it.
Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872
andy hughes wrote:Mammut
Infinity 9.5 is an awesome rope you may want to consider, it can be found for about the same price as the sterling. My experience is the handling and wear are great on it. Sorry that doesn't help w/ your original question though.
RandyR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 40
Larry S wrote: Infinity 9.5 is an awesome rope you may want to consider, it can be found for about the same price as the sterling. My experience is the handling and wear are great on it. Sorry that doesn't help w/ your original question though.
+2 on the Mammut. They're my favorite rope brand. Talk about durable! Their ropes seem a bit thick for the rated size, so you might be happy with that Infinity 9.5. I've never climbed on that particular rope, but the reviews are rave.
Chris G. · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 130

Mammut gravity superdry 10.2. Ready right out of the bag, didn't require any break in. This rope does not feel like a 10.2. Sheath and core dry treated and with a UIAA rating of 10-11? It's a beast!

Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106

The reason I'm not considering a Mammut rope is that I can't get a good deal on one. I get sweet deals on Edelweiss, Beal and Sterling through my work, but we don't have anything set up with Mammut.

Thanks everyone for the input, it sounds like it'll either be the Curve or the Velocity.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Taylor Ogden wrote:The reason I'm not considering a Mammut rope is that I can't get a good deal on one. I get sweet deals on Edelweiss, Beal and Sterling through my work, but we don't have anything set up with Mammut. Thanks everyone for the input, it sounds like it'll either be the Curve or the Velocity.
You could always call Mammut or Maxim directly and tell them who u work for and ask for deal.
Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

Well, if that's your limit of choices, I'd be on the Edelweiss Curve ARC 9.8 (the "ARC" part is their version of a bipattern).

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Cor wrote:sterling...last you long time!
How much? Ten dollars too beau coup!
michaeltarne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 120

I have the Curve and I love it- broke in really quickly, and now it's fairly soft but not too much and it handles so well.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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