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Routes in Tarot Wall
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Ah Ya Punter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Constant Gardener, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Devil, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Start to The Magician T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Earth Angel S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fool, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hanged Man, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hermit, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Horse, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Magician, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Manganese Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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S.I.N. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tower, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wheel of Fortune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Bruce Hildenbrand and Ron Olsen, 8/30/06 |
| Page Views: | 4,377 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Sep 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
The Magician is a fun new route on the left side of Tarot Wall. Crack, face, arete, and overhang: great variety and superb position. There are several variations, and the route can be done as a 5.9 or a 5.10.
Start on the left side of Tarot Wall, left of Earth Angel and Ah Ya Punter. Look for some stone steps angling up left to the wall. There are two bolts on the face just right of the arete. This is the route. The two bolts mark the direct start, which is 5.10. The standard start (5.9) is around the corner to the left, in a dihedral with parallel fist and finger cracks.
Angle left up the stone steps to the base of the wall. Scramble up to a ledge at the base of a dihedral with parallel fist and finger cracks. Climb the cracks (5.9) and step right to the arete. Place pro in a horizontal crack (#0.75 Camalot) and step up (5.9) to a stance by a bolt. Move up to a great horn and crank past it to a ledge. Step left and climb a V-shaped rock to another ledge. Step left, clip a bolt, and continue left to the overhang by the arete. Work up on funky holds and clip another bolt. Turn the overhang by the bolt, or for more fun, go farther left and crank the overhang using an airy rail (5.9). Clip a final bolt on the slab and traverse right to the anchor. Lower back down. Belay your second up and have them clean the pitch.
Alternate starts:
1. 5.10: Scramble up to the ledge below the dihedral with two cracks. Traverse right and clip a bolt on the face. Work up and clip a second bolt, and make a crux move (5.10) up to a finger crack. The easiest line climbs a little right of the bolts. Continue up face and cracks to the horizontal crack of the standard variation.
2. 5.10: Scramble up to the ledge below the two bolts on the face. Place pro in a finger crack on the right then step up and clip the first bolt. Continue up as in variation 1.
Start on the left side of Tarot Wall, left of Earth Angel and Ah Ya Punter. Look for some stone steps angling up left to the wall. There are two bolts on the face just right of the arete. This is the route. The two bolts mark the direct start, which is 5.10. The standard start (5.9) is around the corner to the left, in a dihedral with parallel fist and finger cracks.
Angle left up the stone steps to the base of the wall. Scramble up to a ledge at the base of a dihedral with parallel fist and finger cracks. Climb the cracks (5.9) and step right to the arete. Place pro in a horizontal crack (#0.75 Camalot) and step up (5.9) to a stance by a bolt. Move up to a great horn and crank past it to a ledge. Step left and climb a V-shaped rock to another ledge. Step left, clip a bolt, and continue left to the overhang by the arete. Work up on funky holds and clip another bolt. Turn the overhang by the bolt, or for more fun, go farther left and crank the overhang using an airy rail (5.9). Clip a final bolt on the slab and traverse right to the anchor. Lower back down. Belay your second up and have them clean the pitch.
Alternate starts:
1. 5.10: Scramble up to the ledge below the dihedral with two cracks. Traverse right and clip a bolt on the face. Work up and clip a second bolt, and make a crux move (5.10) up to a finger crack. The easiest line climbs a little right of the bolts. Continue up face and cracks to the horizontal crack of the standard variation.
2. 5.10: Scramble up to the ledge below the two bolts on the face. Place pro in a finger crack on the right then step up and clip the first bolt. Continue up as in variation 1.
Location
On the arete at the left side of Tarot Wall, about 50' left of Earth Angel.
The easiest approach is around the left side of Avalon. Cross the creek and head up to the first tier by the route Mists of Avalon. Continue left up a path to the left side of Tarot Wall. The path reaches Tarot Wall just left of the route Earth Angel. Walk left about 50' and you're at the route.
The easiest approach is around the left side of Avalon. Cross the creek and head up to the first tier by the route Mists of Avalon. Continue left up a path to the left side of Tarot Wall. The path reaches Tarot Wall just left of the route Earth Angel. Walk left about 50' and you're at the route.
Protection
For the 5.9 variation: pro up to a #3 Camalot plus 4 bolts. I placed a #3 Camalot, a red tricam, a #0.75 Camalot, and a pink tricam in addition to the 4 bolts. A #2 Camalot could be placed at the start below the #3 Camalot. To sew up the crack, bring a #4 Camalot and place it above the #3.
For the 5.10 variations: pro up to a #1 Camalot plus 6 bolts. Red Alien and/or #0.75 Camalot for the finger crack above the first two bolts.
Bring a few extendable runners since the pitch traverses in places.
2-bolt anchor. The anchor is a little tricky to clip since it's out on the face to the right. It was placed there to minimize rope drag for lowering and top-roping.
For the 5.10 variations: pro up to a #1 Camalot plus 6 bolts. Red Alien and/or #0.75 Camalot for the finger crack above the first two bolts.
Bring a few extendable runners since the pitch traverses in places.
2-bolt anchor. The anchor is a little tricky to clip since it's out on the face to the right. It was placed there to minimize rope drag for lowering and top-roping.
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