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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Absurdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Blunderbus T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Deep Chills T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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HELP! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Intergalactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Monumantel T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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PLEH! T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Snake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Sort of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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V7 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Wild Horses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Jim Mcarthy & Hans Kraus |
| Page Views: | 6,676 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Spiro Spiro on Aug 25, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
Start on some easy ground and climb a section of wide crack. Trend left, with some face moves, towards a shallow ledge on top of a large block. From there, trend back right towards a vertical crack and right-facing corner. More fun moves following the corner, and up and leftward to the chains. Very fun climb for the 5.7 leader. Don't be fooled by the name!
Roger Benton describes the pitches above:
Pitch 2: From small ledge left of the chains, head up and diagonal right, aiming towards the top of a good-size pine tree at the horizon. Basically find the obvious "clean" path through the lichen. It's easy climbing, but watch for loose/creaky flakes. Williams' guide says 80ft but I thought it was more like 50. There is a tree with slings and rings but the tat is ancient and crusty ... don't use it. If you've gone this far, the bolts over Arrow are close enough. 5.3 at best, but clean, enjoyable climbing.
Pitch 3: More easy but yet dirtier climbing, about 30-40 ft to the top. Lots of dirty, grassy ledges; be careful not to drop junk down on your partner. 5.2. It's tempting to link these two pitches, but that would have the rope running over dirty pebbly ledges, dropping junk all over everything. We walked climbers' right through waist-high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow.
Roger Benton describes the pitches above:
Pitch 2: From small ledge left of the chains, head up and diagonal right, aiming towards the top of a good-size pine tree at the horizon. Basically find the obvious "clean" path through the lichen. It's easy climbing, but watch for loose/creaky flakes. Williams' guide says 80ft but I thought it was more like 50. There is a tree with slings and rings but the tat is ancient and crusty ... don't use it. If you've gone this far, the bolts over Arrow are close enough. 5.3 at best, but clean, enjoyable climbing.
Pitch 3: More easy but yet dirtier climbing, about 30-40 ft to the top. Lots of dirty, grassy ledges; be careful not to drop junk down on your partner. 5.2. It's tempting to link these two pitches, but that would have the rope running over dirty pebbly ledges, dropping junk all over everything. We walked climbers' right through waist-high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow.
Location
It is left of Never Never Land and starts on a ledge about 10 feet up. I climbed the face to get to the ledge. Look for the large right-facing flakes and corner high up.
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