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Increase my waist size?

Original Post
Tony T · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

So, I've been climbing for almost eight years now and I'm running into a bit of a dilemma because of my body type. I have owned two harnesses now, and my most recent was an older blue and orange Petzl Adjama. I recently retired it after an exhaustive search for a harness that fits my 26.5" waist.

It is no secret that I am a small fry of a guy. However, climbing companies used to offer a lot more XS men's harnesses than they do now, so it never used to be a problem. It seems to be now, as I drove to every climbing shop in the Denver area (Bent Gate, Neptune, and Wildy X) and I couldn't find a harness that fit for the life of me.

Now, I know what you're going to say. "Try on women's harnesses." I have! The trick there is that the rise is too high and the end up coming up over my ribcage. I settled on a BD Aspect because it was reasonably tight when maxed out. However, after taking it out for about seven times now, the webbing seems to have stretched a tiny bit, and I'm back to feeling like my harness is not exactly secure once weighted with draws and pro.

FML? Ideas? Has anyone else been in this spot and found a reasonable solution? I'm thinking I should try a Lotus on again and see, but I remember trying it and it being too tall? Was I imagining it? I also need/prefer a harness with adjustable leg-loops, reasonable amounts of padding, and the ability to unthread the leg-loops. I use it for rock, ice, and snow.

Any harness manufacturing reps out there willing to help?

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

BD Wiz Kid?

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

call misty and tell them your problem, they might be able to hook you up with a custom. I have a cadillac and I like it a lot.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
C Blank wrote:BD Wiz Kid?
I think the whiz kid will fit, but they only have 2 gear loops.
Kendra LDD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0

I have an Apex Rock Equator Plus Harness (from MEC).
It's definitely a no frills harness but does have adjustable legs loops and clips so you can remove them.
It does not have a lot of padding, but it's also cheap!
I think it is unisex, considering I have an XS (and a 27 waist) and my partner (male) has a S
Fits us both fine
Not sure if it's good for snow or ice.

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

While my waist isnt as small as yours. I'd look at the Wrap around style harnesses like Arcteryx and the others with similar technology in XS as they lack padding and i feel can wrap around a small waist better

Good luck and obviously try out if you can.

T

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

This may sound a bit crazy but how about a getting a woman's harnes that fit like a glove around your waist and then trade out the leg loops for men's leg loops.
I have done a similar thing in the past and it worked well.

Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145

Since good answers have already been given.... Swami and leg loops? :-)

Jeff Thomas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Just talk to Misty Mountain. They could easily put together a harness for you with a women's waist belt and men's leg loops. I absolutely love my Cadillac.

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

I'll echo the other responses suggesting Misty. They will set you up with exactly what you need at a reasonable price.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

Check out the Trango Liberty Harness. The small size is spec'd down to 23" (and I just verified that mine would go down that small). Its fully paddded with 4 gear loops, a full strength haul loop and has adjustable leg loops that can be dropped or removed completely. I really like mine and the double buckle system allows us skinny folks to keep the gear loops/belay loop centered even when the waist straps are cinched down.

Liberty Harness

Tony T · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

Thanks for all the replies.

I had never even thought of swapping the leg loops! I think I'm going to try that with my current Aspect and just order an XS Lotus and swap 'em!

If not, I'll contact Misty. The Cadillac actually comes in an XS! =)

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155
Tony T. wrote:Thanks for all the replies. I had never even thought of swapping the leg loops! I think I'm going to try that with my current Aspect and just order an XS Lotus and swap 'em! If not, I'll contact Misty. The Cadillac actually comes in an XS! =)
The cadillac is a sweet harness, I especially love it for climbing trad with the big gear loops. Let me know if you ever want to check mine out. My waist is 34" though.
Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

Another plug for Misty from me.

Tony T · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

It does look pretty amazing, but I don't get a discount on Misty. =( I'll have to make this work with the Lotus and Aspect?

Tony T · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

So, I ended up ordering a BD Lotus (2011 version) in XS. I was so excited when it came in, and I immediately tried it on. It fits! Then...I noticed it only has three gear loops. Seriously!?! I just can't win here.

I just sent a desperate e-mail to BD about it. I'm sort of peeved that it doesn't say anything on BD's website about the number of gear loops being reduced when it is an XS. I never would have ordered it if that was the case.

We'll see what they say, but I'm half tempted to use the bar tack machine at work and just add one. I'm also thinking of making one out of a stiff tubing of some sort run through a hollowed out 6mm cord.

Ideas?

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

That discount sure is paying off.

BigJuggsjohnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 220
mitchy B · · nunya gotdamn business. · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

why don't you just gain a little weight. Or stop being cheap and get a misty mountain harness, you will not be disappointed

Kilroywashere! London · · Harrisonburg, Virginia · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 280

no joke, mistys are worth the money, made in murica by awesome people who are willing to customize your harness for you so you get the safest and most comfortable piece of gear possible.

also they are durable as all get out, mine is still in amazing shape, im on year 2 of guiding in it and it just wont quit...

Tony T · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

So, I got a very typical and corporate response from my very heartfelt and passionate plea to Black Diamond. Unfortunately, I can now see why brand loyalty is dying, as these companies become more concerned with corporate liability than they are with brand loyal customer retention.

In summary, the response said that there isn't enough "real estate" to put four "usable" gear loops on the harness. To me that seems like a poor explanation because there's about an inch to inch and a half between the rear gear loop and the drop seat buckles in the back of the swami belt. However, I'm not a gear designer, so I have to take them at their word.

I appreciate all of the recommendations for Misty harnesses. The two things holding me back from them are the lack of speed buckles, their perceived bulk (which probably isn't that bad, but hard to tell when I haven't seen one in person), weight, and price. Honestly though, I might not have another option at this point. I know you guys think it's just being a cheap ass to balk at the price point, but working for peanuts has it's downsides...like having to balk at $130.

=/

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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